Hated it! Loved it!

OK, the city is just cool! But not literally cool – it’s hotter than the Amazon here!

I woke up nice and early and had a coffee in my apartment while the rest of the world got up. This town definitely sleeps in.

Have I mentioned how hot it is here yet??? I left early for my tour and sweat was literally dripping from my chin within 5 minutes  I had to return to my apartment and get what I’m calling toalla del sudor – the sweat towel

Welcome to Cartagena
Welcome to Cartagena

The free walking tour started at 10 AM from the old Naval Museum in the walled in part of town. I really love the free walking tours! This tour lasted a little over two hours and our tour guide had been doing tours in Cartagena for 26 years.  He didn’t have the richest of personalities but he sure did know his facts.  I always learn so much about a place when I do these tours. I also get a chance to figure out where I’d like to go and spend more time. And I get to do it all for the cost of a tip which – in this case was only 5 dollars. Nice!

I’m not much of a historian but some of the history of Cartagena is absolutely fascinating. For example, the Inquisition of Cartagena. People deemed as heretics against the catholic religion were tortured and then executed in one of the city’s squares.

The Inquisition Museum and the square where the torture would ensue.
The Inquisition Museum and the square where the torture would ensue.

Also, the history is reflected in the architecture of the old town.  It is a mix of colonial and republican architecture. The balconies of the colonial style housing have sharp pointed corners, allegedly to scare the witches away.  Cartagena is 50 to 75% Catholic, and you can see that evidence in the multitude of churches within the city. Also, the doors of the houses give an indication of the wealth of its owners. They are massive – big enough for a horse to pass through – and have brass knobs on them. Legend has it that the more brass knobs, the wealthier you were.

I am much more interested, however, in the modern day secrets of the city. Like where I should go to eat! And drink! And dance!  And shop!  I learned that there are a few types of cuisine here. The one that I really needed to look for is called la comida corriente. This is typically what the locals eat. It is a set meal of rice, a meat, and a salad for next to nothing!

I also learned that there is a local market called Las Bovedas. It is a colonial structure that was built into the walls and used to be dungeons. It’s now a shopping destination with multiple vendors selling everything from art to magnets. I’d have to make it there.

A beautiful view of the tower
A beautiful view of the tower
The famous fat lady sculpture in Plaza Santo Domingo
The famous fat lady sculpture in Plaza Santo Domingo
One of the wealthiest families in the city lives here
One of the wealthiest families in the city lives here
A great sign: un cafe ( a coffee) $10,000, un cafe por favor (a coffee please) $7000, buenas un cafe por favor (good morning, a coffee please) $4000
A great sign: un cafe ( a coffee) $10,000, un cafe por favor (a coffee please) $7000, buenas un cafe por favor (good morning, a coffee please) $4000

After a great tour I took the guide’s advice on a restaurant and had la comida corriente for lunch. A full dish of local food – including a plantain with hot sauce on it (GENIUS) and a local Club Colonial beer – for the dollar equivalent of $6. Awesome!

Beer!
Beer!

Beer + vacation = nap in my world and after that I was off to my first private salsa lesson. It was at a local dance school called Crazy Salsa and I’d booked this lesson weeks ago. My first realization was how different it was from my lesson in Quito. There, all we really did was dance. Here, I learned the names of the moves and ways to perfect my form and footwork. My teacher was a local who grew up about 2 hours from the city – Mauricio. Perhaps the better experience had something to do with speaking the same language? Who knows; either way I learned so much and totally loved it!

I had previously asked the building manager to recommend a place where I could go for just a glass of wine – no food. I looked last night for something and had a hard time of it. He suggested Cafe del Mar, which is located on the city wall where tourists go to watch the sunset. Hated it! The view was nice but it was 20-something people and techno and neon lights…seriously not my thing.

I began to wander and found myself chatting with the manager of a spa I was inquiring about. He suggested a restaurant called La Vitrola for dinner and wine. Loved it!! It’s a Cuban restaurant with live music and an even more lively atmosphere. From the moment I stepped in I felt good. From the older gentleman hitting on me at the bar to the young waiter who said, “come with me, I’ll take care of you”. It was just what I wanted. I didn’t even look at the menu – I went on recommendations alone and enjoyed a beautiful fish, yummy white wine, sweet music and people-watching. Another great day in an amazing city 😊

Super cool doorway at La Vitrola. See the little door within the bigger door??
Super cool doorway at La Vitrola. See the little door within the bigger door??
Live Cuban music at La Vitrola
Live Cuban music at La Vitrola

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