Casa Mil Viente y Ocho

Casa Mil Viente y Ocho is a mobile restaurant that also serves as a tour bus through Old Town Quito at night. Cheesy, right? Well, it was, in all the right ways! After getting lost again on the way to the tour, I saw two men sitting out in front of the bus. Thinking they might be there for the same reason as I, I said hello. That was the beginning of such a fun – and, yes, cheesy – night! I met Patricio and Gerardo. Patricio is from Santiago, Chile and is in Quito working for his government. He was “sneaking away” as he’s had a police escort since he arrived for a delegation. He and Gerardo have been friends since they were children and Gerardo moved to Quito years ago so along with work, they were able to catch up. They had no problem with me joining their party. Patricio served as our translator and was just such fun!

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The bus wound it’s way through the very narrow streets of Old Town Quito while serving us traditional Ecuadorian food and explaining what it was. This is an important thing when you don’t recognize what you’re eating! My favorite food was humitas. Humitas are savory steamed fresh corn cakes made from a mixture of freshly ground corn, onion, garlic, cheese, eggs, and cream. They are to die for! I’d seen them being sold on the streets and didn’t know what they were.

Anyway, our first stop was the Basilica del Voto Nacional which I’d seen during the day but which looks like it glows – like it is lit from within – at night. It’s architecture is neo-gothic and our guide told us the history and legends of it’s building. For example, most gothic architecture is “protected” by gargoyles. This one is protected by species from Ecuador only – like Condors and Caymans and  Galapagos tortoises. Also, the basilica remains unfinished – on purpose. There are huge areas of the outside that remain empty while their counterparts are complete. Legend has it that once the basilica is finished, the end of the world will come.

It is absolutely this stunning in person!
It is absolutely this stunning in person!

We also learned the basilica’s connection to the winged Madonna on El Panecillo. From in front of the alter within the basilica, the is a small heart window through which there is a direct line to view the winged Madonna. Pretty cool!

After hearing of the legends here we were treated to a traditional local drink called the canelazo. It is served hot – which is very important because it gets very cold in Ecuador because of it’s high altitude. It is made of aguardiente – which is a sugar cane alcohol (also called Fire Water!), sugar and agua de canel (water boiled with cinnamon). Other local spices are also used and result in a slightly sweet drink that reminded me of muddled cider with a big kick!

Second stop was the Plaza de San Francisco, the main façade of the Church and Convent of St. Francis. Here we learned how the church was completed with the help of the devil and a local who outsmarted him to maintain his soul.

Plaza de San Francisco
Plaza de San Francisco

Finally, we were headed to Plaza de la Independencia – also locally called Plaza Grande. It is the central square of the Old Town and where the power in the city resides. The Presidential Palace is here as well as the building of the municipality of Quito. The square is lovely and lush with blooming trees with a large Independence Monument at it’s center.

Plaza de la Independencia
Plaza de la Independencia

Falling asleep on my feet, I decided that Mariscol could wait until tomorrow. Gerardo was kind enough to drive me to my hotel. I think it took him longer to drive there than it would have for me to walk 🙂 The kindness of strangers – and now friends – continues to amaze me! The night  would have been so much different – and less – without them.

There’s so much to do here that I’ll probably write another post later. Anyone bored yet???

A great first day in Quito – walking, sightseeing and dancing

The first thing I usually do to figure out a city is walk. I walk, walk, walk and then I walk some more. I get completely lost and look like a dorky tourist the whole time. I always have my map, my hand on my bag, and I can usually be seen walking up and down the same street more than once after realizing I’ve gone the wrong way. But these are all great things – especially in Quito.

Quito is the capital city of Ecuador and at an elevation of almost 10k feet above sea level, it is the highest official capital city in the world. It is located on the side of Pinchinca, an active volcano in the Andes mountains. You can see the volcano from any vantage point in the city. Quito’s historic center was also one of the first World Cultural Heritage Sites declared by UNESCO and it is one of the least altered since then, giving you a feeling that you’re going back in time.

Quito / Ecuador / Dawn brings light to Quito and the Pichincha Volcano.
Quito / Ecuador / Dawn brings light to Quito and the Pichincha Volcano.

It is a highly walkable city but the first place I wanted to walk to was Ritmo Tropical Salsa – a dance school in Quito. I wanted to see if they could fit me in for a lesson or two while I was there. The first person I met was a Scottish dude who’d just been attached for the 3rd time in the city! Wake up call! He’s been here for 2 years but still! After hearing that the owner of the dance studio went on to tell me in Spanglish how dangerous the city is 🙁 Better to be warned, I guess. I booked a private lesson for 4 and went on my way.

I must have walked 4 miles today – again, the best way to see a city in my opinion. The city is a very religious city – mostly Catholics. There are 32 Catholic parishes just in Quito itself. Because of this, there are churches everywhere – and they are absolutely stunning! Most are very ornate and are open to the public for tours. I saw priests and nuns all over the Old Town – some blessing the elderly, some out for lunch.

Plaza in Old Town Quito
Plaza in Old Town Quito

I stumbled upon Feria Solidaria – a solidarity festival – in the Old Town. There must have been over 100 kiosks set up – selling everything from children’s toys to homemade honey to jeans. It seemed like tons of locals here – and a lot of children returning from school in their uniforms. There was also a band set up playing lovely Spanish music. I spent some time here just wandering around and attempting to use my very bad Spanish. I got by – which was hard for me to believe.

Looming above the city is the El Panecillo statue – a 45 meter tall statue of a winged Madonna which is situated on a high hill made of volcanic soil. Like the volcano, it’s visible from most places and seems to be an iconic symbol of the city. To me she is beautiful but also slightly scary and serves as a reminder of that darned Catholic guilt!

Statue of the Virgin of Quito at night, El Panecillo Hill Statue, City of Quito, Ecuador, South America
Statue of the Virgin of Quito at night, El Panecillo Hill Statue, City of Quito, Ecuador, South America

Off to salsa! I’d booked an hour lesson with Juan Carlos – a local who didn’t speak a lick of English. But wow – was it fun! And hard! He had me twirling and moving in all sorts of directions. He did tell me the Spanish names of the moves so I’ll be doing research on them soon. Basically it was an hour where I got to dance my butt off without apologizing for not being any good! And I’m actually decent, I think. I’ll have to learn the Spanish word for “decent” because I’ve booked him again for tomorrow 🙂

Sweating like I’d just done a cycle class – yeah, that’s hot, I know  – I took a stroll thought the Mariscal area of Quito. This is apparently where all of the nightlife is. Tons of discos and karaoke bars – who knew? Throw in an Irish and an English pub and I couldn’t wait to get the heck out of there. But – since I keep hearing about this area as a place to experience the city, I will be going back – after hours and not sweaty – and NOT to an Irish or English pub (much as I love them!)

Mariscal Neighborhood of Quito
Mariscal Neighborhood of Quito

Tonight I’m  off to continue being a complete tourist – this time on a Mobile Restaurant. I’m not sure if this is totally cool or completely a waste of time and money. But I really want to see the city lit up at night and I really want a guide to talk to me about the monuments and I really want to try some platos typicos – typical dishes in Quito. So here goes!

Voy a extrañarte tanto

Basilica de Vito Nacional
Basilica de Vito Nacional

I’m finally on my way. It’s been a strange couple of days and I’m fascinated each year when I head out on a new trip. As I get older I’m starting to have more fears. Don’t get me wrong – I am NOT afraid of snakes in the jungle or for my safety. I’m still – yes, still – afraid of being who I want to be and being vulnerable. You’d think I was still in high-school right? And these kinds of trips are all about getting outside of my comfort zone but, in all honesty, that’s just uncomfortable J And that’s how I’m feeling right now. More than anything I want to truly connect with the city and other people. Hopefully with an open mind and heart that’s exactly what will happen.

I’m going to miss the people I love so much but I do feel that going away like this each year makes me appreciate and respect all that I have. And I truly can’t wait to get deep into the jungle – surrounded by nature. New sounds, new sights and new friends. It’s there that I think I’ll find true joy and peace.

Check back soon. I’ll be writing and posting almost all days with adventures in Quito, Ecuador, the Amazon jungle and Cartagena Colombia.

Me = Travel Snob

I am a travel snob. There, I’ve admitted it. That’s the first step, right?? I set such high expectations of each trip and hope that the next will be just that much more crazy, adventurous, dangerous and over-the-top than the previous one. Will it be as great as my previous journeys? Will it challenge me? Will it make me uncomfortable? Will it teach me something about me and this beautiful world? I’m hoping to answer YES to all of those questions!

A river runs through it - the Amazon
A river runs through it – the Amazon

This time I’m off….to the Amazon rain forest. Woohoo! I’m going to the Ecuadorian rain forest and I chose that because of my desire to learn the Spanish language. Even though I’m not even close to being conversational, I thought that going to Brazil and being surrounded by Portuguese would completely knock me off my Spanish game.

I’m going to be spending 5 glorious days deep in the jungle with the Huaorani tribe – a tribe indigenous to the area who are focused on keeping their home – the rain forest – intact. They do this by inviting a small group of people to an Eco lodge which they created and now maintain and immersing them in their culture and customs. We’ll live like the Huaorani do – hunting and fishing, climbing trees, building fires for heat and being surrounded by rich wildlife. We’ll even spend one night sleeping under the stars – with the bugs and the snakes and the jungle animals. Soooo cool!

I’m so looking forward to learning from and learning about these people – and of course the others who will be part of the group. I think it takes a special (i.e. crazy?) group of individuals to take on this kind of tour. So I’m hoping we all have a lot in common.

A member of the Huaorani tribe
A member of the Huaorani tribe

After my stay in the jungle, I’m going to pull a complete 180 and travel to Cartagena, Colombia – a place known as one of the most romantic in the world. I’m going to pamper myself there with wonderful food and wine, salsa dancing, long walks on the beach and a bunch of history about another new country.

Cartagena, Colombia
Cartagena, Colombia

I’m excited to once again share my journey with you. This forum has definitely served as a way for me to document my crazy adventures because I don’t want to forget a moment. But I also hope it puts a smile on someone’s face or makes someone realize that they can follow their dreams or encourages a desire to learn and interact with people that are so different from us.

I hope you’ll stick with me – it’s going to be a great ride!