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Hiking? Falling! Laughing 😆

With no adventurous excursions planned, today was a day to explore Fairbanks a bit. The scenery here is just so raw and amazing that of course we wanted to hike it. There aren’t a ton of winter trails within 30 miles or so of here. But with the help of Pike’s reception and AllTrails we were able to find some.

We first headed back toward University of Alaska Fairbanks – locally called UAF. Based on the recommendation of a gentlemen at our front desk we could head to the Georgeson Botanical Garden and get on a couple of trails from there. Obviously not a ton to see right now from a plants and flowers perspective but it was just acres of open, white, snowy fields. Beautiful
and still
and peaceful. Well, we did manage to find the trails but as we do, decided to take the road less traveled.

The map looked to show another trail a bit north of where we were so we decided to just walk across the snowy field to get there. No problem, right? Well, WRONG! But oh so fun! We didn’t get more than a couple of feet when we started to sink into 2-foot deep snow with every step we took! It was absolutely hysterical. See a couple of funny photos below. I could not stop laughing as John decided it was more efficient to crawl rather than walk. And at one point rolling down the hill was the preferred choice of travel. I was sweating and giggling and falling on my butt in the beautiful snow. What simple silly fun!

Stuck in the snow at UAF
Jeez this is hard!
Crawling may be the right decision

We did manage to get back on trail and though it was less fun it was certainly a lot easier to manage. We decided to try the other hiking area recommended to us by the man at reception – Creamer’s Field.

Creamer’s Field – Migratory Waterfowl Refuge – is a 2200-acre bird sanctuary right in the middle of Fairbanks. It consists of wetlands and forest and fields and was originally opened as a dairy farm. It also boasts miles of trails through this beautiful area – on the wetlands as well as through the boreal forest. The boreal forest is simply stunning. White, flaky birch trees surrounded and covered in pristine snow. Areas where the weight of the snow has caused the trees to form beautiful arches to walk through as if you’re on a red carpet. And oh so still and quiet. Although we didn’t see any moose or other wildlife it was a really nice – almost meditative – way to enjoy the morning.

Snowy birch trees forming a natural arch
The edge of the boreal forest near Creamer’s Field
Beauty, stillness, peace

We’d been reading about the Cookie Jar restaurant – and getting recommendations to go there – since we arrived in Fairbanks. A sweet, diner-like restaurant with yummy sandwiches and friendly service, it didn’t disappoint. And neither did the Oatmeal Coconut Chocolate Chip cookie. I’d go back for the cookies alone! And the cinnamon rolls looked delicious!

Bakery case at the Cookie Jar

We’d been planning on dinner at The Jazz Bistro since we arrived but were waiting to go on a weekend so that we could hear live music. This is a restaurant featured on Guy Fieri’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives back in 2021 but we were there for the excellent Cuban food and music we’d read about.

We were taken care of by Rico the head chef and Leonora. It’s a sparsely decorated restaurant but the charm of the people and the incredible food were what mattered. Both Rico and Leonora took the time to chat with us – about where we’re from, the economy, food, drinks. And again, the food was incredible! John copied me and we both got the Salmon Cuban Style. Amazing!

Cuban salmon at The Jazz Bistro

As it was, we were way too early for the live music. It started at 10. Apparently the restaurant turns into a PARTY once the music starts – lots and lots of salsa. So fun. But alas too late for these old folks.

What a nice experience all the way around!

Gratitude for the ultimate end to a trip

We had just one last dinner to enjoy before returning home. Like the previous night I won’t be able to properly express how special it was.

A quick stroll through Athens

We were graciously invited to George and Margaret Stathopoulos’ house in Athens. George and John’s father met in college and have remained friends since then. John knew George from growing up but not well. But that didn’t matter. We were again welcomed with open arms – even me who didn’t know them at all.

We arrived to their flat and immediately sat down at a table on their patio with a stunning view of the Olympic stadium lit up in the distance. We were offered wine and from that point it was on! We seemed to immediately click with this lovely and gracious couple and we found ourselves with so much to talk about. So many family stories and talks of travel and books and the seriously amazing life George has had! George is an attorney by trade but stopped practicing about 10 years ago. Now he fulfills his passion by promoting Greek artists across the globe. His stories include meeting celebrities and writing a book. Just incredible! We got to hear a lot about George’s life and even got a sneak peak at the book he just finished working on. I’m really hoping he’ll send us a copy as it won’t be for sale.

Over a homemade meal of Greek meatballs and salads and spinach pie we learned about their history and their family and their dreams. And we got a tour of the very impressive artwork displayed in their home. They even offered to host us again in their home in Athens or in one of their homes on the island – Kea.

The incredible George and Margaret Stathopoulos

I have found the last two nights with family and friends to be transformative. And that is, after all, why we travel right? To meet people and share experiences and create memories. I again felt so much gratitude for the opportunities given to me and for the people I’ve been so fortunate to meet.

I have a favorite quote that is very applicable to this last post of the trip to Greece. “We travel, some of us forever, to seek other states, other lives, other souls.” The quote is by Anais Nin and sums up my feeling as I return home.

Nafplio and a VERY special day in Athens with family

We didn’t have much time left to explore beautiful Nafplio so we were up early to try to catch the sunrise and see more of the city.

We definitely wanted to climb the steps to the Palamidi Castle. The Palamidi fortress and castle sit atop a 216m-high hill (over 700 feet) right outside the city of Nafplio. You can see the fortress from everywhere you look within the city. It is so impressive. It was constructed during the Venetian occupation in 1714 and took only three years to build. It has eight bastions to ensure that if one was breached the others could still be defended. They are on top of each other.

Going to this castle was a must-do, partly for the views of Nafplio and the rest of the Argolic Gulf.

View of the Bourtzi castle from Nafplio

On the way we just wanted to see what else we saw on the way there. We tried unsuccessfully to get to the only beach right in Nafplio because the walking path was closed due to the danger of falling rocks. And John wouldn’t let us pass because he didn’t want to “bail you out of a Greek jail”.

Bourtzi and the Argolic Gulf

The next attraction we came upon was the AkronauplĂ­a Castle. So many castles; so little time, am I right?! This is the oldest of the three castles in Nafplio (the third is Bourtzi). The lower section of the walls date back to the Bronze Age (3300 BC – 1200 BC) and until the arrival of the Venetians the whole town lived here.

It was so early that we had the whole area to ourselves and it was a cool, crisp, beautiful morning to see the views around the city. We joked around as I rang a (very) loud bell on the clock and did a “morning dance” on an high ancient rock wall jutting out over the sea.

Post “morning dance”

We made our way back down the hill to get to the steps of Palamidi. Per my research there are 999 steps to reach the castle. Up we went. And the higher we went the better the views got. Again we had the area pretty much to ourselves. This really isn’t too tough of a walk. The steps are a normal height and it look us around 15 minutes to get up even with a couple of breaks. And the view from the top – and even on the way to the top – is totally worth it. See below!

View from the Palamidi castle
John happens to be a little afraid of heights!
Accosted by a mama and her kitten at the bottom of Palamidi hill

We had a leisurely breakfast at our hotel (because it was free 😆). This was the first breakfast we’d had in Greece. Oh – besides bougatsa. And we enjoyed every moment of it and got to try a few new foods – cheeses and fruits and breads and meat. It was an indulgent way to end our time in Napflio.

The rest of the day was truly special in a way that I won’t be able to adequately express in words. But of course I’ll try.

John has family in Athens and he’d worked to get in touch with “aunt” Mary. We were scheduled to take a taxi to her house from the bus station and spend the day with her – eventually meeting some other family members for dinner.

Mary lives near the Kolonaki area of Athens and has been there for 36 years. She lives in a truly amazing apartment filled with family heirlooms and photos in a busy and walkable area of Athens. She welcomed us with open arms! John hadn’t visited her since he came to Athens on a AHEPA (American Hellenic Educational Progressive Association) trip when he was 16! That was over 40 years ago! So it was a long time coming.

We were lucky in that her daughter Constance was at the apartment with her daughter Alexia. Connie had just arrived from Vienna and was picking up her daughter from Mary’s house. When John was here last Connie was just a baby. She and her daughter are lovely! It was great to sit at Mary’s kitchen table, have a cheese sandwich and talk about life with Mary and Connie – everything from where they’ve lived and traveled to family memories to politics to racism – including how much John looks like his dad! This is a family that is so close and loves and respects each other so much – it was special to be part of it.

We got in the car to go to Mary’s athletic club called Vouliagmeni – a private club in the seaside resort of Vouliagmeni where she goes to swim and socialize. We were to meet other members of John’s family and, unfortunately, I won’t get the relationships correct – but they are all cousins – I do know that! We met Thanassis and his wife Marykeri, Dimitris and his wife Emelia and their son Marcos. We sat at a lovely table overlooking the sea and sharing more stories of the Cacheris family. One story that we need to make sure we share with John’s dad is the time he traveled to Athens when he was a young man in the military. Apparently rock and roll was just getting big at that time and he tried teaching the cousins the rock and roll dancing!

Dinner with the “cousins”

I have felt such feelings of pride and gratitude during these days in Greece! What a way to culminate them!

Nafplio – sweet, charming, LIVABLE

A flight and two buses later – via nice navigation by my husband – we found ourselves back on the mainland in Nafplio, Greece. Nafplio is a town in the area of Argolis in the eastern Peloponnese. It is dubbed as one of the most romantic towns in Greece. But that is not why we came to this beautiful place.

John’s grandfather was born and raised here and John wanted to visit the place his grandfather called home. This is an amazing story of courage – the man left his family and all he knew – without knowing any English – to come to America in order to find work. He left this town in his 20s and moved to Chicago where he was given a job as a dishwasher. So Nafplio has a special place in John’s heart and we made it a priority to visit.

I’m so glad we did! For more reasons than one. To honor John’s grandfather and also because this place has such a wonderful, relaxing, happy vibe. It is my new favorite place in Greece! And, incidentally, we could both LIVE here!

As always, a small bit of information about Nafplio and then a link to find out more if interested. According to mythology, the town was founded by Nafplios, the son of the god Poseidon and the daughter of Danaus Anymone. The city was the first capital of the modern Greek state from 1823 – 1834. Then the capital was moved to Athens.

After leaving our luggage at our hotel, we went to explore. Have I said how incredible this place is?! The small alleys are filled with people and shops and tavernas but with so much charm and sweetness. This place is nothing at all like Naousa or Chania or Heraklion. It simply has a different vibe. Much more relaxed and slow and homey


Lunch was in order and since the hotel-recommended restaurant was closed on Sunday we picked a random taverna on one of the many small, quaint alleyways close to our hotel in the Old Town. One thing a blogger should never do —— take a photo of the restaurant – you know, so you can write about it – and NOT be able to translate the Greek to English. Ug! Luckily my husband took note – Taverna Byzantino. John had a Greek cabbage salad called Politiki. We hadn’t seen this before and it was of so good. See John’s face below!

Politiki salad

The first thing we wanted to do was head to Pronia – a small suburb of Nafplio. This, in particular, is where John’s grandfather called home. The area is just a short walk from Nafplio Old Town. The suburb sits in the shadow of the awe-inspiring Palamidi hill and fortress (more to come on this later) and is more of a traditional Greek area.

Palamidi fortress from town

We did not see any tourists here. A few shops and cafes and a market or two but we were pretty much on our own. Could be that it was Sunday as well. We talked about John’s grandfather and wandered around and said a prayer. It was touching
.I am hoping someone remembers me in such a way


We headed back to the Old Town to check into our hotel – Amymone and Adiandi. It was so cute! Very cool art and decor! And right in the middle of the Old Town. It was perfect for our brief stay.

More exploring
and shopping of course! The shops here are filled with more than your traditional souvenirs. There is local arts and crafts and fashion and jewelry boutiques and pottery. The window shopping is really fun! So that’s what we did – until we didn’t 😊.

A night on the town
Cute husband

We finally stumbled upon a little art shop called ??? (if you’re still reading, I’ll add this later!) The sweet older Greek couple who owned the shop were just sitting outside chatting. There were some lovely pieces of painted wood in the window. Not really our style but John wanted to take a look. And I’m glad he did! Beautiful, different types of Greek art; some of which was painted by the shop owner himself. We got some nice pieces but I’m not saying more because some of you reading this will be getting them as gifts! We also really enjoyed speaking with the couple in John’s Greeklish. Hearing about where they came from and how they found Nafplio was nice. And seeing the pictures of their grandkids. And a Greek tradition we weren’t aware of. The shop had many dried pomegranates hanging from the wood beams on the ceiling. Per the owner, on the first day of the new year, it is a Greek tradition to smash a pomegranate in the home. If it opens and spreads the seeds it’s good luck.

We both felt better about finding some nice gifts for our loved ones. It was time for a cocktail overlooking the port and the stunning island – and fortress – of Bourtzi. The castle was built in 1471. Interestingly, to protect the castle from enemies, the Turks laid the surrounding sea with a large barricade of stones that made it impossible for large ships to approach the island and the fort. The island and the castle are simply stunning! This is one of the places I wanted to check out. You can visit the castle by boat. Unfortunately it was currently closed due to construction. While telling us this, the sweet young man from our hotel “deleted” it from the map.

The view was still wonderful but being veteran tourists we’d never have dinner right next to the port. But drinks at Psarosavounas Bounos would work – Ouzo for John and Tsipouro for me. Tsipouro is another traditional alcohol made in Greece. Very similar to Raki in that it’s made from grades, but Raki is specific to Crete. Strong and delicious – two of my favorite things!

Ouzo and Tsipouro

We wanted to head back to Pronia for a more local experience for dinner and to also pay more homage to John’s grandfather. We went to O Pseiras Taverna. We had a wonderful meal served by a young man who was in Nafplio for the season and couldn’t wait to get back to Athens. Not too much for a young man to do in this town, I guess, but it was perfect for us. We simply ordered what he suggested and of course it was one of our top meals. Sitting on a small table on the sidewalk in the shadow of Palamidi hill, drinking local wine, eating delicious food with the one you love. What could be better?!

Hiking the Samaria Gorge

Today was a very, very long day but also an incredible one! Knossos was John’s number one of the trip and this was mine – hiking the Samaria Gorge.

The Samaria Gorge is a national park of Greece and includes a trek of 16km (that’s 10 miles – I had to look it up) starting at an altitude of 1250m (400+ feet) and ending at the shores of the Libyan Sea. The gorges in Crete, including Samaria, were formed due to the movement of tectonic plates over thousands of years.

We started from our hotel at 5:30 am to travel to the tour meetup. We’d finally decided to do a tour after a lot of thought and back and forth on pros and cons. See, it’s pretty easy to drive – or get a bus – to the gorge entrance but since the hike ends on a beach that is only accessible by foot or boat, there’s not a great way to get back to a car or an accessible bus. Just for logistics alone we decided the organized tour was the best option. You’re not hiking with anyone; they just take care of the transportation.

The entrance to Samaria Gorge
Let’s do this!

The gorge starts off shaded, steep and full of switchbacks with rocks of all sizes and shapes to traverse. As you descend every view is more amazing than the next. But nothing we hadn’t seen before – just stunning mountains in the distance and a rocky trail ahead.

For real?!
Fresh at the start

As you descend further however, you get into the gorge itself. THIS is not like anything you’ve seen before! Or – anything I’ve seen before! Massive boulders surround you as you navigate a dry river bed filled with smaller boulders and loose rocks. Our guide warned us not to yell or sing too loud as it could cause falling rocks!

On the river

The Samaria Gorge is absolutely stunning! But not in the stunning way of Elafonisi Beach. This is massive and harsh and a bit treacherous. Each view is more impressive than the next. I kept saying, “Oh my God”. The pictures simply do not do it justice but we did take a ton of them.

Sittin on a boulder

About halfway down you end up in the ancient village of Samaria. This village was finally abandoned, however, in 1962 – not that long ago. And the rangers who care for the park still stay in the restored houses in the village.

Entrance to Samaria village

About two thirds of the way down you come upon the Gates. This is an area of the gorge that is 3m (9 feet) across at its narrowest and soars to a height of 300m (~1000 feet). You navigate over a wood bridge and hang onto a rope as the wind rushes at you through the mountains. Just spectacular!

John passing through the Gates

When you finally get to the end of the Samaria national park you still have to walk another 3km (if you choose!) to get to the sea. You arrive at the tiny seaside village of Agia Roumeli. Now, instead of the Aegean Sea, you’re at the Libyan Sea. Completely on the other side of the island. Agia Roumeli definitely caters to the gorge walkers but is also considered a tourist destination.

We finished the trek in about 5 hours which I think is considered average. We took food and drink breaks and many, many photo breaks. It is a fairly easy trek. Just try to wear some boots with good tread as the rocks are loose and slippery.

Dusty, dirty sneakers

What’s the first thing we did?!?! A local beer of course! Big for me and small for John. And a nice relaxing meal sitting seaside and watching the other hikers bobbing in the water.

It was a very long bus trip back. Logistically the tour was the right thing to do. But tip: do it from Chania, not Heraklion if possible. It’s a much more palatable bus ride.

The Palace of Knossos and a Humongous Gyro

The day needed to start with bougatsa and coffee – like a local of course. And we needed to determine the best bougatsa in Chania. Either bougatsa Chania or Bougatsa lordanis. Apparently there is a war between the two oldest bougatsa cafes in Chania. We’d tried Bougatsa Chania jus two days ago as it was sublime! It would be tough to beat but someone has to try right? However, Bougatsa lordanis has two flavors – either the original which is Mizithra cheese fried in super thin phyllo dough, or sweet which is custard friend in super thin phyllo dough. Oh the tough decisions made on vacation!

The verdict is in – Bougatsa lordanis is awesome but just not as awesome as Bougatsa Chania. There you have it.

Today was a travel day so we made our way to the capital city of Crete – Heraklion. I’ll be honest, I did not want to spend any significant period of time in this city. I had not read great things about it – just another larger city without a lot of Greek charm. But I’ll be honest again and say that I didn’t plan very well and Heraklion was the best place to stay given the rest of the things we wanted to do.

Tip for everyone – get to know the buses when you travel. It’s such a local thing to do. And they are easy and cheap and on time. We’ve really had good luck with them.

We checked into our hotel in Heraklion – the DOM Boutique Hotel right in old town. We’d decided to spend a bit more money and go with a nicer place. It was nicer and the service was great BUT it was boring. Not a ton of charm to this place – unlike both Naousa and Chania.

Regardless right away we were off to the Palace of Knossos. This was John’s number one thing to do in Greece so we were very excited.

Knossos is a large archaeological site just outside of Heraklion. It has been called Europe’s oldest city. The Minoan civilization used this site and it’s palace for over 2000 years beginning in the Neolithic period ( the Stone Age) through 5 AD. The excavation of the site began in the late 1800s and reveals a fascinating ancient world that includes legends and myths including the myth of the labyrinth and the Minotaur.

John had booked a skip the line audio tour instead of an organized tour and it really did work out. Except for the fact that part of the palace was closed off to tourists due to COVID-19. Again, eff-you covid! But it was fascinating seeing the excavation, hear how the legends and myths came to be and see the intact ruins of the Minoan world. The audio tour – although confusing to follow due to the closures – was a good look into the daily life of these people. This, like the history of Chania, is best told by someone else. If you’re interested


The Grand Staircase at the Palace of Knossos
Knossos
Knossos

After Knossos we needed to just wander around the old town of Heraklion. It was much less charming than Chania! Very focused on the tourists and tons of retail. Also a lot of tavernas which was nice. We picked a nice people-watching spot and enjoyed Cretan white wine and ouzo.

Contemplating life at a taverna in Heraklion

I still wasn’t satisfied with the gyro I’d had in Paros so we asked our sweet waitress for a recommendation. She recommended Hovoli which was just a short walk away. Two things
first I finally learned the difference between a gyro in a pita and souvlaki in a pita. It’s just the way the meat is cooked! In a gyro it’s shaved right from the chicken, pig, lamb, etc. In souvlaki it’s chunks of grilled meat stuffed into the pita. You learn something new and important every day! Second, this is my new favorite meal of the trip. I was served a humongous pita stuffed to the gills with meat, a little bit of tomato, yogurt sauce and piping hot French fries! Finally, a gyro I can brag about. It was soooo yummy.

Shaving the meat from the rotisserie – this is what makes it a gyro
Now that’s a gyro!

We did not even scratch the surface of Heraklion unfortunately. I’m sure there is a ton to offer but priorities right??

Elafonisi Beach – totally worth it in shoulder season

This post is going to be short because what is there to say when you spend the entire day relaxing on one of the world’s most beautiful beaches?! I know, I know – someone has to do it!

As per usual we wanted to see the sunrise over Chania so we headed down early to the old Venetian port. We were able to walk partway to the lighthouse where we watched the sun make its appearance behind a bunch of kinda nasty looking clouds. I think it made it even prettier, however, as at one point it looked like fire over the mountain. And in another view the sun’s rays were literally like the sunshine you drew as a child.

Sunrise over the Venetian port – the rays like you used to draw as a child
The sun looking like a fire through the clouds

Another great way to start the day but the weather was looking a little iffy. We had already purchased bus tickets to take us to Elafonisi beach and since it is shoulder season there is only one bus there and one bus back to and from Chania. So we were a bit panicked that we’d get there and spend the day huddled under an umbrella while the skies opened up around us. But we chanced it! And I’m so glad we did.

The weather started to clear as we were on the picturesque but sometimes scary (Big bus! Cliffs!) ride. But by the time we got there there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. Me = blessed.

There are no good words to describe how beautiful this beach is! Elafonisi beach is the beach one often sees in photos of Crete and is considered one of the most beautiful in the world. It is called the pink beach because of the pink coral sand seen at the water’s edge. It is unique because of the pink hues of the sand and the light turquoise clear water that is so shallow that you can simply walk to Elafonisi island.

Crystal clear turquoise water at Elafonisi

In my research I’d learned not to expect to see the pink sand as the tides and weather can affect whether or not you can see it. But there it was! Stunning! To best see the pink sand, I stood at the waters edge and waited for the clear turquoise water to turn the sand. It was then that the pink coral shells would appear turning that area of the sand a beautiful baby pink. See the pictures below. I think I captured it a little bit.

Can’t see the pink here — wait for it

Now you can definitely see the pink! Again no filters

What do you do when you’re in paradise? Grab a sandwich, grab a beer, go for walks, plan your next days in Crete, read, sleep.

More pink!

Note that I think part of the reason we enjoyed the beach so much is because it’s shoulder season. I simply cannot imagine high season here. Based on articles I’ve read, I’m not even sure we would have come during July or August. But as always, things have a way of working themselves out!

Proof that we were there

It was a long day of relaxing
.I know I can hear the little violins playing now
but we needed an easy night. And we needed to buy some jewelry! We got a bit lost but eventually found Ouranos jewelry where we’d found a ring that I loved the previous day. I needed my own souvenir right? It’s a spinner ring! I’ve seen these before in pictures and I just love it. The brand is K.And. Super cool and it will bring back great memories of Crete!

My K.And crown ring

We are definitely on Greek time. We did not even sit down for dinner until 10 pm. We stumbled upon a place due to being famished and indifferent. The tavern is called Avli twn thaumatwn and it was really really good! I tried another local dish that I just learned about called Apaki. A delicious Cretan smoked pork. This one was served with local honey sauce. Yum! Second favorite meal!

Alvi twn thaumatwn – I dare you to pronounce that!

The incredible city of Chania, Crete

It is 4:22 in the morning in Chania, Crete and I am sitting on the roof in my Airbnb in the Old Town wrapped in a blanket while writing this blog. The nighttime lights of the city are my view but the city itself is asleep. I have the whole place to myself. Can’t sleep – needed to write.

We arrived in Chania very late via a ferry and a way-too-close-to-missing bus ride. Chania is a city in the northwest of Crete and the one that, per my research, is a good place to explore the island for a first-timer. There is a long, sometimes sordid history of the city. The influence of multiple cultures can be seen in the architecture here – Mycenaean, Roman, Turkish, Venetian. More to come here


We’d booked a local guide for a 4-hour tour for a few reasons. First it is a way to get to know the city from the eyes of a local. Second you get to see parts of the city that you’d never see on your own. Third, you learn the history of the city that you cannot get from a guidebook. And fourth, you get to pick his brain on the right places to go – recommended tours, restaurants, the best place for a sunset view – you get the idea.

We met Antonis at the Municipal Market on the edge of the Old Town in Chania. This impressive market was completed in 1913 and was supposed to bring all of the needs of the people into one place – fishmongers, butchers, fruit and vegetable stalls. It has since turned a bit to tourism but this is still a place the locals go to buy their fresh food.

Municipal Market

We stopped at a cheese stall where we tried a bunch of different Cretan and Greek cheeses as well as Cretan honey, olives, figs and the infamous Raki. The cheeses – the most unique one called Mizithra – is a soft white cheese that looks similar – but DOES NOT taste similar – to cottage cheese. The Greek people use this cheese in many dishes – from spaghetti to the Greek dish called Dakos that we’d had in Paros.

Raki, honey and figs not pictured

Raki is the traditional liquor of Crete. It is also called “Tsikoudhia” and it has Turkish roots. It is made of grapes boiled in a cauldron. It is clear and some say similar to Ouzo or Souma from Paros. It is consumed as a symbol of friendship on this island and it is considered rude to not be offered a glass when visiting a Cretan home. You can drink Raki straight or with honey, or with another fruit. The one we tried was with honey. Oh it was like a nectar! Very sweet and did not taste of alcohol at all. Even John liked it! We’d definitely have to try more of it.

Our next stop on the tour was to try another local traditional dish – bougatsa. Bougatsa is a traditional Greek pie filled with cheese or custard and then folded into super thin phyllo pastry. It is typically served for breakfast with coffee. We went to one of the oldest – and arguably the best – bougatsa cafes in the city – Bougatsa Chania. This was a dish that was on my list to try and it did not disappoint. Ours was filled with soft cheese and then sprinkled with sugar. A little savory and a little sweet if you will!

Bougatsa!

We made our way from the new part of the city into the Old Town – the most famous area of the city and a big draw of tourists. There is so much history seeped in this area of the country that I could not even begin to do it justice. So I’ll link to a place that can. We strolled through old gates into the Old Town where we saw the West Moat and the bastions that protected the city. We’d stop every few meters or so to hear more stories about the history of the area from Antonis.

Once inside the Old Town it is very touristy. However, the old Venetian architecture remains so it is also gorgeous. There are rows upon rows of alleyways were you can get lost, shop, have a coffee, watch the world go by, whatever you like. We wandered through some of the more touristic areas and then to some of the back alleys were locals actually live. We learned about famous churches, monasteries, wars, sieges, real estate, culture, coffee – you name it!

A lovely little alleyway in the Old Town

We finally made our way down to the famous Venetian port of Chania. This is definitely where all of the tourists are – but you can see why. The charm of this place is incredible! It is divided into the western basin and the eastern basin. The western basin is the source for all of the photos of the Chania port – lined with cafes and shops with very few boats. The eastern basin is where boats are docked and is also the location of the dockyards. Also called Arsinalia, these were used to repair ships and were built in the 16th century. They were originally open to the sea so that the boats could pull right in but have since been closed off to the water. These are stunning pieces of architecture that you have to see!

During our chats with Antonis he had mentioned a place that the locals know about and go to watch the sunset. Antonis called it the Squat. It is a squatted social center called Rosa Nera right in the heart of the old town. You have to walk up a set of “donkey steps” to get there. And it’s nothing fancy – just a big open area that sits high above the city. You can look down on the old Venetian port from here and see way out into the sea. We would definitely be back here for sunset!

I swear the bottles aren’t ours!
View of the port from the Squat

We continued our walk and talk and ended up at the Chania municipal garden – an area of green very close to the Old Town. There is a super impressive Ficus tree here and also some Cretan goats. We sat and had a coffee at Kypos cafe. This cafe was built in 1890 and the Greek coffee is served in the traditional style – not in the cup but in the Greek briki. Once served the consumer pours from the briki into the cup. John loved this! We also tried a traditional dessert called Ekmek Kaitafi – a custard, cream and syrupy shredded pastry with “ice cream”. Yum!

Beautiful Ficus!
Traditional Greek coffee served in a briki
Ekmek YUM

We finished our tour with Antonis at a traditional souvlaki “window” called Oasis. There is no place to sit here and no other item on the menu. It is a gyro – or souvlaki – served with pork, tomatoes, onions and yogurt. Messy and simply delicious!

What a great tour with Antonis! We learned a TON and really enjoyed his company. As I get older I really do appreciate learning from locals. It is such an important part of our holiday!

John and I decided to stroll around the Old Town after our tour – maybe work off some of what we ate?!?? And I definitely wanted to check out the shops. It was leisurely but, man, there are a lot of tourists and it’s the end of September! We had some fun window shopping. This area of Crete is known for its olive oil, wine, Raki, knives, embroidered fabric and leather. Really only 2 of those things are easy to travel with! But it is fun to look and pick up gifts for us and family and friends. The jewelry is pretty great too. I may come home with something pretty


We finally found a bench right on the port where we enjoyed the view and planned our stay. Once the sun got too hot on our backs we went for a local beer at Corner of Angels – a cafe recommended by Antonis. We got their house beer – I don’t even know what it is but it was delicious.

After a short rest at our Airbnb we made our way to the Squat for sunset. I brought my Souma and we picked up a local beer for John. It was stunning to watch the sun dip below the Venetian buildings on the opposite side of the port. We were gifted with some beautiful colors once the sun went down.

Sunset at the Squat
Is that a beer in your pocket?
NO CAPTION NEEDED!

Off to another recommendation from Antonis – Ela Restaurant. The restaurant – as everything in Chania – has a long history. It was built in the Middle Ages by the Jews. It’s been used to make soap, as a school, as a wine store and as a restaurant. It was completely destroyed by fire in 1988. Since then it has been renovated and now serves Cretan traditional food. We both got dishes based on recommendations – bisteka (beef stuffed with feta) for me and sea bream (the whole fish!) for John. We enjoyed a really nice conversation and ended the day hand in hand back at our Airbnb.

John and his whole sea bream!

Kokou – get on the horse!

We woke before dawn to be at Kokou riding center for a sunrise horseback riding tour of the northeast coast of Paros. When John saw there was horseback riding in Paros he was all in. Lit up like a little boy 🙂

All of Naousa seemed to be asleep at this time of day – and rightly so – but Kokou was abuzz when we arrived. Ivan and Dani are the owners of the stables that have been in Naousa since 1990. They moved from Canada(!) to fulfill their dream. Now they own 28 horses and provide sunrise and sunset tours of the island.

After being fitted with helmets we were shown to our horses – Asteri for John and Irma for me. They were beautiful. We joined another French couple on the tour and were lead by 3 young women – Chloe from London, Emily from Manchester and Emma from Florence. Yes we went on a tour in Greece and our guides were mostly English!

We set out in the dark along a deserted road as the sun rose around us. It was lovely! At this point we were surrounded by land which as I’ve said before is very arid – so brown. And then of course the stark white of the houses that we passed. The views coupled with the sounds of roosters crowing, people chatting and the clomp clomp of the horses hooves was so peaceful.

We made our way to the coast, all the while chatting with our guides – interning for Ivan and Dani for 2 months at a time. Sweet girls seeing the world while they figured out what to do with their lives. To be so young with your whole life in front of you. I hope Gaby does something like this


I digress. Part of the sunrise tour is riding the horses through the sea. Once on the beach Emma led the horses to the water. They were not afraid at all! And per our guides they really loved swimming! In order to get the horses moving the guides yelled “Alli” and splashed them. You could not be part of this and NOT have a grin slapped all over your face! Soaking wet, riding in the Aegean Sea on a horse, getting splashed by a feisty Italian and getting hit by a squirt gun by Ivan. I can’t make this shit up!

We made our way out of the water and toward the Filizi coast. I have researched this name and (I think) all permutations of it Filizi I can’t find anything on Google about this area of Paros. I’m going to proceed regardless. John and I had not been to this area of Paros – the northeast coast of the island. It is absolutely breathtaking! Instead of the bleaches and marinas we’d seen, this side had steep cliffs and waves crashing on the rocks jutting out from the sea. A harsher look on this side and oh so beautiful. The horses took it all in stride – no pun intended. We were literally on the edge of the cliff and – although we were hesitant – the horses were not.

One area I was able to find in my research that we passed was Ambelas beach which is a small, unorganized beach sitting between two tall cliffs. Gorgeous!

This was a ride I wished would not end. We walked for the most part but a few times the guides let us cantor with the horses. What fun! So much fun I’m sure I’ll feel it later 🙂

Back at the stables we said goodbye to Asteri and Irma and put yet another wonderful experience in our memory jar


Balcony selfie!

We really didn’t have anything else planned for the day so decided to get in the Little Spark and go explore. Paros is a relatively small island – 22 km north to south and 13 km east to west. It takes just an hour to drive around the island. So why not?

Our host as well as a friend had recommended stopping at the small southern port of Alyki. It is a cute fishing village with a population of just 280 (as of the 2011 census). There are multiple beaches here – as anywhere in Paros! – and you get a lovely view of Antiparos from the end of the port.

The port town of Alyki

We had a nice Greek salad at a seaside cafe called Manolis Cafe but, honestly, this was not my favorite place. It was SO hot. And although the port was pretty, it didn’t seem to have the charm of Naousa. A lot of the shops and tavernas were closed – I’m not sure for the day or for the season. I’m sure I missed something but it just wasn’t my favorite.

Since it’s so small we decided to take the scenic route back to Naousa. Honestly the views here just cannot compare. It seemed like every time the Little Spark rounded another bend we said “ooohhhh”.

Dinner tonight was a direct recommendation from Ivan of Kokou. Called Christiana, it is part of a hotel and sits on a cliff outside Naousa. He said it’s the best mousaka on the island. We decided to try it for sunset even though it would mean John driving Little Spark in the dark.

First, the view from Christiana is incredible. It is in the little village of Ambelas – which we had ridden through this morning – on the northeast coast of Paros. It looks out onto a very tiny port and the island of Naxos which is a large island to the east of Paros.

Ambelas

We were shown to our table and greeted by a local who did not speak much English. No problem – we don’t speak any Greek! I ordered Souma – of course – and John got a white wine. The menu was extensive. All traditional dishes with fresh caught seafood from the brother of the owner. I went for the fresh mussels in olive oil with tomatoes and feta. John – he’d been looking forward to trying the pasticcio which is similar to lasagne or mousaka but without the tomatoes. Well, per our waitress the pasticcio did have tomatoes in it – as did the mousaka. So she recommended a similar dish cooked in lemon. John was disappointed but ordered that along with a split pea appetizer.

White wine and Souma
Getting good at the selfies!

The language barrier is a hard thing 🙂 The waitress returned to tell us the “fava was finished”. We thought that meant his main dish could not be ordered. Hmmmm, there was a little bit of animosity on both of their parts as well as mine. A case of really not understanding each other! Unfortunately it affected our impression of Christiana. I say unfortunately because the food was beautiful. My mussels were so delicious and so fresh and so flavorful. And John’s dish was also very very good. We made the best of it and as said, the view was over the top. At the end of our meal the moon made a spectacular appearance just over the mountains. It was huge (maybe just in my mind). But again – I am not the same having seen the HUGE moon shine on the other side of the world


Look at that moon!

I needed another glass of Souma and John was on the hunt for Greek pastry. We stopped at a local supermarket where John asked if they had Souma. They – of course – did but it was in a clear plastic (former?) water bottle with no label 🙂 As I said in a previous post, the Souma is made locally so there would be no label. Silly me!

We also managed to find a local bakery – Pastry Shop Antonis – with really really nice Greek desserts. Of course we bought a bunch of them for take away.

Souma, Greek dessert, our apartment’s veranda and me writing this blog – what a perfect way to spend our last night in Paros.

Pastry Shop Antonis and Souma in a plastic water bottle

Boating around Paros – when life gives you lemons


Sunrise in Paros – you have to see it right??? John and I woke early, made my coffee and quickly booked it down to the port of Naousa to catch the sunrise behind the port. The traditional whitewashed houses/hotels/shops sit in front of where the sun rises so it slowly makes itself shown behind the stark white of the architecture. We stood on the wall to the old fort and watched Mother Nature say hello to the day. Most of the town was asleep of course, so we got amazing photos and got to hear the sounds of the town waking up – the peace of a soft “kalimera” from a stranger walking by, the swish of a restauranteur sweeping their floors, the CRASH of workers recycling all of the bottles from the Saturday night party the night before! 🙂 It was a wonderful start to the day!

Sunrise in Naousa

John and I were both very excited about the rest of our day – a full day sailing tour around the small Cyclades. This was literally one of the first tours I had booked when we decided to go to Greece. And coincidentally, Claire and Mike (love you guys!) had done the same tour which I found out just hours after I booked. And they had simply loved it! Great minds
.

The best laid plans
.or so they say. The company confirmed out trip just last night. We arrived at the port 15 minutes early but there was no sign of our boat or any tour. We texted, we called, we asked random strangers – no one could get ahold of the tour operator. Finally someone was able to get us the name of the boat – the Lady K. It was there – staring at us in the face – but no one was aboard. And apparently no one could get ahold of the captain. We waited – texting and calling – for a good 45 minutes before the tour operator finally got ahold of the captain who had an “urgent” issue to attend to and wouldn’t make it. Happily the service of the tour operator was exceptional. They were very attentive and refunded our money almost immediately. But I was so sad. That’s not true – John would say I was ANGRY! This was a tour that I was really, really looking forward to.

Thank God for my husband. We both immediately got on our phones to see if there were any other options. I mean, it’s COVID times and shoulder season right? I had no luck but John was able to get ahold of Pantasoulas Daily Cruises – an outfit that operated 6 hour cruises from the port of Naousa – which we were no longer close to! But Ilias Pantasoula – the tour operator himself – texted John back immediately. It was 10:30 am. He had a tour leaving at 10:30 am and they would wait for us. Seriously?!?!?! So cool!

John navigated the Little Spark like a race car driver back to Naousa and we arrived at 10:55 to the welcoming smiles of Ilias and his gorgeous younger sister Dimitra. There was another couple onboard from Poland – Joanna and “who”Cash – who also had no problem waiting on the crazy American couple who ran into bad luck. These four people had totally changed our day around!

Off we went! I honestly think the best way to see an island is from the water. The perspective you get is just so different. This case was no exception. Even leaving the port of Naousa was stunning. To see the white, white, white of the buildings contrasting with the deep blue of the sea was just incredible.

Ready to go!
John looking like a gangster
Naousa from the boat

Our first stop was North Santa Maria beach – one of two Santa Maria beaches – this one much smaller, not organized and to the north. It is still on Paros. Ilias had flippers and masks for us and let us loose. We could snorkel or head to the beach or just hang out.

No fear issues here

Anyone who knows me knows that I’m pretty scared (understatement) of open water. So it was a bit of an effort and a “you can do it” to myself to get me in. But I did! And it was lovely – but still frightening. After hyperventilating a bit into the snorkel, I made my way to the beach. Here the four of us took the gray rocks and clay, added water, and gave ourselves a mud bath. Supposed to be amazing for your skin. We literally had the entire beach to ourselves! The girls stood there to let it dry and just chatted. What a lovely couple they are. Part of the experience of traveling is getting to know folks from other parts of the world. And I really enjoyed getting to know Joanna.

Really? It looks so nice from the boat


When we all got back to the boat, Ilias and Dimitra had cheese pie – made by their mother(!) – waiting for us. Delicious! It was then that we got to learn about the Pantasoulas family. Ilias and Dimitra’s father is a fisherman and was the man who helped untie our boat when we arrived, Ilias’ mother made some of the food. How cool is it that a family is that close and keeps the family business alive and
still likes each other? 🙂

Our next snorkeling spot was called Gouva according go Ilias. Unfortunately, Google doesn’t know about Gouva but it was another very secluded area with a reef to snorkel to. Needless to say, I didn’t make it that far. But at least I got in and doggie-paddled around for a bit, right?!

That water – you could see clear to the bottom

This time when we returned to the boat there was homemade wine from Pantasoulas family vineyard. Are you kidding?! I am not – I couldn’t make this up! It was simply wonderful! This man and his sister were so sweet and seemed so proud of their family and their business. It was rare and beautiful to see. And the wine was pretty good too!

Wine from the Pantasoulas vineyard

Next up was Platia ammos, yet another very secluded beach on the Southern side of the island. Google does know about this one. We saw just one house on the entire peninsula. Apparently it’s protected land and the house was built before the rule was in place. Per Ilias it is a very tough place to get to by road so most approach by water.

Proof I got in the water

Are you wondering what food was awaiting us this time?! This time it was a full lunch spread – Greek salad, multiple kinds of seafood, pasta with fresh tomato sauce and shrimp, fresh bread, homemade tzaziki. And all of it prepared by both Ilias and Dimitra! In fact as we were snorkeling, Ilias was grilling the fish on the boat. His father had caught it, he had marinated it in olive oil and vinegar and left it in the sun to dry and then he’d grilled it. Simply awesome! And for John, Greek salad with no tomatoes 🙂

Our last stop was Agia Kali which is the island John and I were able to see from Kolimbithres beach yesterday. The one with the small traditional church on it. We stopped here and were able to snorkel and play in the water. We were also able to hop on the island and see the church which is open all year. It was simply lovely. This island was where the Russians set up their headquarters in 1770 when Naousa was a Russian naval base. Apparently now they celebrate a religious festival here as well as many weddings. I can see the appeal!

Again you’re wondering what treat awaited us back on the boat? This time it was dessert – halva – made by Ilias and Dimitra’s mom. Made with semolina, sugar, egg and cinnamon, it was Devine – not to sweet with a lovely texture.

Halva made by Ilias and Dimitra’s mom

And then we had to return to real life. If you call vacation in Paros real life! I honestly have no words for the trip we were on today. It was wonderful! From the sweet Polish couple to Ilias and Dimitra to the views to the food and drink – it could not have been better! It’s days like where I know – truly and deeply – how blessed I am


Ilias and Dimitra Pantasoulas

John and I had been waiting and searching for the right place and time to get a traditional gyro. I remember my first 🙂 In Mykonos with a hot, fresh French fry right in the middle of it. Delicious! Tonight was our night. I researched it! We went to Allos in Naousa based on their stellar reviews and the drooling we’d done walking by for the last two nights. Luckily on Sunday we were able to snag a table. A carafe of house white – lovely – and two chicken gyros – awful! We couldn’t believe it but, as Americans do, we weren’t going to eat something that wasn’t what we wanted. I knew what I wanted and this was cold and the pita was bad. Just yuck
 we paid and went onto another place with stellar reviews. Take two right?

Souvlaki Kargas finally did us right! Fresh, hot, filled with meat, chicken and tzatziki and tomato – it was delicious! And right in a corner in the buzzy town so very very good people watching!

What a seriously fantastic day! It’s the ones that aren’t what you’re prepared for that turn out to be so great. And for that I’ll go to sleep with gratitude and a silly grin on my face!