You simply cannot go to Paros without checking out the world-renowned beaches. Even if you are a mountain girl at heart. I don’t love being in a bathing suit, or sweating, or getting sand on me, or baking in the sun. Sounds terrible right?! But I do love nature and I am awed by a stunning view. I got both today! I also got the sweating, sand………but I digress.
We chose Kolimbithres beach because based on my research it is one of the most unique beaches in the Greek islands due to it’s location within the Cyclades and on Paros. It is located in Plastira Bay and although it is called one beach it is really a series of “hidden” beaches sandwiched between enormous rocks that have been sculpted into otherworldly shapes by the wind and waves over centuries.
Kolymbithres beachCurrent situation
You can rent a sunchair and umbrella – recommended because the sun gets SO hot – and every once in a while glance up to see these unique rocks on either side of you and jutting out into the ocean with the backdrop of Naousa in the distance. And don’t forget the sailboats and yachts docked in the bay for your viewing pleasure. Although not a beach girl, I was in the shade next to the man I love surrounded by beauty. There is something about a beach…just the sounds of it. The soft lap of the waves, slow wandering of folks into the surf, the sound of a multitude of languages being spoken all around you. It was lovely and highly recommended – even from this mountain girl.
A view of a small island between Naousa and Kolymbithres
We were fully crispy and HOT even under the umbrella so decided to just drive around in the Little Spark for a bit. We wandered around a bit and eventually made our way to Parikia which is the capital and main port of Paros. This is the other city that most tourists choose to stay in. I avoided it, however, due to Naousa being termed a “sleepy fishing village”. That quote is so wrong! In a good way!
Pretty Parikia in the backgroundAnother lovely arch
I will say more about Parikia when we spend some more time there. We had a nice stroll and FINALLY some loukoumades. Although Pralina Paros served them differently. Loukoumades are the Greek version of donuts. Those of you who know me know that donuts are very near and dear to my heart! But these are small bite-sided donuts. Call them donut-holes if you will.
They are traditionally deep fried in oil but these were “baked” without oil and served smothered with choices of toppings – from dark chocolate to the Bueno praline. We didn’t even hesitate! And as the photo will show below, phenomenal!
Loukoumades!
After being turned away two nights ago we finally had a reservation at To Takimi. As said, this restaurant had been recommended by many and without reservations you were turned away. I was really looking forward to it! And it did not disappoint.
To Takimi, Naousa
To Takimi is a traditional Greek restaurant that sits right in the middle of the Naousa hype. The menu is full of Cycladic and Parian dishes and John and I wanted to get out of our comfort zone. I started with Souma – my new favorite drink? – and asked the sweet waitress what her favorite items on the menu were. Well her face just lit up! And, probably needless to say, we tried almost all of them.
Grandmas cod roe dip with bread to start, baked chickpeas and sun dried mackerel for John and calamari for me. But this wasn’t your American bar-food calamari. This was not fried but was baked in a sauce of tomatoes, raisins and grapes. It was incredible! The best meal here in Greece yet. Just goes to show you that you really should ask the sweet waitress about her favorites and then order them!
The meal finished with a small shot of a drink they make in house. White wine with orange and spices. Yum, yum!
To top of the night, here’s a picture for you…walking back to the apartment on the way out of the town. There’s a scooter – nothing new there – scooters are everywhere. But this time it’s passengers included a chihuahua. Not being held; not being leashed – just hanging out on it’s own seat right below the handlebars. THIS I have not seen before in my long life. That little puppy needed to make the blog! See below…
One of the top things on my list of things to do in Paros was to visit the picturesque village of Lefkes. After coffee on the veranda of our sweet apartment, into the Little Spark and off we went.
Even the drive – much less stress-inducing this morning – is lovely and gives you information on this stunning island. It is dry here and brown and arid and mountainous. I didn’t expect that. And all of the architecture follows what you think of when you imagine Greece. Everything is white, white, white. Against the backdrop of dry and brown, it is a site! Twisting roads and white crowded small villages pop up in the most unexpected place.
We made our way safely to the village of Lefkes. Lefkes was the first capital of Paros back in the Middle Ages and is full of all you think of traditional Greece – whitewashed houses, quaint alleyways bursting with bougainvilla, bright blue doors and window shutters. And a new treat around every bend. It is high on a hill which makes the views from the village breathtaking. You can see the neighboring island of Naxos from there.
The lovely village of LefkesGetting ready to hike
I’d read that it wasn’t a touristy town and that there is a nice, easy hike from the town to an even smaller, more classic village of Podromos. It is called the Byzantine Road and it’s the oldest trail on the island and dates back to the Byzantine era – around 1000 AD. According to my research it is an easy 2+ mile downhill hike to Podromos. For anyone reading this, it is not the case. It is NOT a hard hike but there are hills and valleys and lots of loose stones. However, it is totally worth it! The road was originally built to cross Paros and connect Parikia to Piso Lavadi at a time when the coasts were dangerous due to pirates. It is lined by olive trees and “paved” by Parian marble. Just lovely. And the day was beautiful with a clear blue sky and we had the trail to ourselves. We chatted, we sweated, we were silent, we ogled the view…it was a nice way to spend the morning.
A portion of the Byzantine RoadOn the Byzantine Road with Lefkes in the background
Needless to say when we got back to Lefkes the village was alive. It was lunchtime after all. We didn’t do a ton of exploring but managed to have a very nice lunch at Lefkiano – a traditional Greek taverna right on the main road where you could watch the world go by – including the hikers just returning from the Byzantine Road. It was here that we tried our first local beer. Called Mamos, it was just what was needed on a hot day after a hike.
On the way to Naousa
After a nice rest in our sweet little apartment we decided to again check out the town of Naousa. During the daylight this time and much less crowded, we window shopped and explored the marina and the Fort of Naousa. The fort is a part of a small Venetian castle which was built in the 15th century to protect the port of Naousa. The only remaining part of the castle is the fort itself. The rest of the walls have crumbled into the sea – some of which you can see in the clear blue-green water on either side. And the view from there back to the pretty port itself is gorgeous!
A view of Naousa from the fortTrying to get artsy on the fort
Naousa is not known for its sunsets as the sun drops below the rocky hills opposite the port. However we were able to snag a small table right on the water. And I mean right on the water – probably 15 feet away. I had a lovely glass of Parian white and John tried a traditional Greek drink call Souma. It is made from figs which are collected in August each year and set on the roofs of mastics villages to dry. There are no companies and no factories to produce this drink – it is made by individuals. So everywhere you get it will be different – and uniquely homemade. It has 45% alcohol and has been compared to Ouzo and Grappa. The look on John’s face when he tried it was priceless! I think he ended up drinking 3 sips. Me – 1. And I thought I could breathe fire afterwards.
John’s Souma face!Not a bad sunset over the marina
We got smart last night! We made a reservation at a local restaurant that had been recommended by 4 different people – two of them Americans who had recently traveled to Paros. It is called Kapari and was one we had tried to get into last night. It did not disappoint. The reservation was under Max and we got a table up on the restaurant’s porch where we could again watch the world go by. More local white wine for both of us. A dish of sea brine for John. For me, revitada – a dish of roasted chickpeas in a clay pot and kolokithokeftedes – Greek zucchini balls for me. These things are amazing!
The meal would not be complete without a shot of souma from the restaurant. As said earlier, they’re all different! Well, this one I really enjoyed! Don’t get me wrong, I still felt like I could breathe fire but this time I wanted to!
The trip to Paros was…easy. On-time flights, no lost luggage, crankiness at a minimum…until we actually got to Paros. That’s when the adventure begins 🙂
We decided to rent a car – as everyone (including Google) told me to do – and the rental agent was waiting right outside the tiny Paros airport with a large sign “COUTURIER”. I love seeing my name on a sign in a foreign country. Is that weird? Purchased the medium insurance, checked out the baby white Spark and off we went. I rented a manual on purpose – cheaper and John and I are very used to driving one. Yeah – used to driving one in the USA! John called the clutch smooshy. Nothing we could do – we were off.
I got to check out the amazing, late-evening scenery as John navigated the roads in the little Spark that doesn’t seem to have much oomph to it! We arrived in Naousa – purported to be “one of the prettiest villages in the Cyclades” – in under 30 minutes and tried to find out apartment. According to Christos – our Airbnb host – there are no addresses on the island – so he gave us a google pin. Seems easy right? Let’s just say that sometimes google ain’t so great. John is great though! I think I made him turn the Spark around 3 times before we finally found the right street. And I say street – it’s really a 45-degree hill that’s not in the best of shape.
As an elderly Greek woman sneered/laughed(?) at us, John navigated the hill. He left a bit of rubber as we went and squealed those tires but we finally located Francesca who told us where the hell the apartment was. I’m not sure we would have made it without her. And she was very kind – “yes that hill is tough, but it’s all ok”.
She showed us to the lovely little apartment as Christos and his wife are off visiting Athens and couldn’t meet us. She also gifted us with a stream-of-consciousness on where to eat and go in Paros. I caught about every 3rd word…
Perfect little apartment in Naousa
This place is absolutely adorable! Thank you to Claire and Mike – our neighbors – for hooking us up! It is a tiny studio with a little kitchen area and a balcony that looks out onto the town of Naousa and the Aegean Sea beyond. This place will be perfect for us. And goodness knows we’ll get our workout going up and down that hill!
The stunning view from our apartment in Naousa
Who needs a shower? We were HUNGRY! Off we went to explore the town and get some yummy Greek food.
As anyone who knows me knows, I have been doing research on this place for months and have gotten restaurant recommendations from many. Even Francesca recommended To Takimi – that would make 4 recommendations for the restaurant. It became our destination…but not for long.
By this point the sun had set and we headed to the small, walkable main area of Naousa which is considered a fishing village and sits right on a lovely marina.
The lovely marina in Naousa – I cannot take credit for this photo!
Well this town was packed! I cannot even imagine it during high season! We couldn’t get a table at To Takimi so we wandered around trying to find a place. Let me just say – make reservations! I’d read that and actually tried but I’ll take it to heart next time. It was fun to walk around and see all of the traditional Greek architecture and the little tavernas filled to the brim with tourists. Small shops seemed to be open all night long and were also doing a very good business. You could get very lost in the sweet little alleyways – and we did.
After exhausting all of the recommendations I’d been given – they were all packed – we ended up at Calypso and had a pretty good meal. Mediterranean salad for John and grilled meatballs with yogurt sauce for me. And of course the local wine! There is a local winery in Paros that I’d been reading about – Moraitis Winery – and I had to give it a try. It was similar to the love of my life – Chardonnay – and was so yummy! And just what I needed after a long day of travel and the “hill adventure”. John tried a traditional Greek wine Biblia Chora. Mine was better!
We wandered the town for a bit longer and promised to come back when there were hopefully less tourists.
The bed was a very welcome sight upon our return to our apartment especially after navigating the hill. There was a local tour guide at the top of the hill who asked how it was. My response – because I was huffing and puffing – was “you can hear how it was”. His response, “you can smell how it was!” Made me giggle! But oh so true.
It has been 697 days since I last wrote a blog post – thank you COVID-19. And even this one is premature as I am still sitting in the Charlotte airport waiting to board a flight to Munich and then to Athens. This is such a long time coming so fingers – and toes – crossed that we arrive and are let into the country.
We are scheduled to be in Greece for 14 glorious days – from Athens to Paros to Crete to Napflio and back to Athens to see John’s family. I am nervous and excited! And frankly very, very nervous to write again…and be vulnerable again. But from what I remember, I loved it so I’m hoping the love affair still exists two years later.
It’s been a rough year for everyone. John and I are blessed that our family is safe and healthy at this time. We have weathered the COVID storm and have come out on the other side. And in the interim, even given the significant stress on all of us, we have grown more resilient and more grateful for the incredible people in our lives. We have made – and lost – friends and strengthened the beautiful relationships that we are lucky to have in our lives.
A genius at work? Keyboard, coffee, wine in a plastic cup
And with that attitude I am beyond thrilled to be able to see the moon shine from the other side of the world. I will eat luscious foods without shame (I hope!), try new things with a big smile on my face and be happy to be uncomfortable in order to learn more about myself. Come with me! It will be amazing – I promise!
Budapest has often been called the City of Baths. There are so many warm spring waters underneath the city that Budapest has had great thermal baths for centuries and the bathing culture is still very lively. There are water sports held in the baths, as well as traditional aqua therapy. In recent years Hungarians have also adopted trance spa parties (sparties) where tourists and locals alike can experience the baths surrounded by music and lights. Both of us decided prior to our trip that we needed to experience these famous Budapest baths. Since these baths are open more hours than even the coffee shops(!), we decided to head there early to avoid some of the crowds.
Our amazing Budapest Jewish Quarter guide, Levi, recommended we go to the Lukács Thermal Bath. Luckily this was just 3k from our hotel. After checking in and getting our bracelets and renting an extremely small changing room we were ready to experience these amazing thermal healing baths.
Lukacs Bath Budapest
Lukács is one of the smaller baths in Budapest and until 2011 was experienced by locals only. Tourists have now found the place but it is still used primarily by locals. The bath is a historic indoor/outdoor thermal bath spa built in the 12th century. It is an amazing complex! Large and maze-like; you can definitely get lost. There are areas that seems to need a little TLC but the overall effect is amazing.
We headed to the thermal pools first since we weren’t ready for an outdoor pool at 8 am on a dreary Friday. This area of the baths was so cool! There were 4 pools and although the plaques were done in Hungarian, we could definitely read that the pools ranged in temperature from 26 degrees to 40 degrees Celsius. For us Americans, that’s 79 and 104 degrees Fahrenheit respectively. And each pool had a recommended time limit – we think. It was obviously recommended to stay in the warmer pools for just a short 5-7 minutes.
We made our way to all of the pools and tried to adhere to the time guidelines for each. It was such an interesting place to be. The thermal pools were deep in the complex and therefore not much natural light got in so it was a bit mysterious. And of course since the thermal waters are rich in healing natural chemicals, there’s a pervasive smell to the place. Not an unpleasant smell, however, but not a pleasant one either. And then there’s the sound of running water all around you. Which, to me, is one of the most relaxing sounds there is. So this was heavenly! The people all looked to be locals – I shouldn’t make that judgement – and most were well above our age. We assumed this was because we were there so early on a weekday morning.
I really try to pay attention to people when I travel – and make up stories about them I guess. Is it fair? I don’t know but it’s fun for me…There were the 2 best male friends huddled in a corner of the cool pool softly chatting. About business? Home? Who knows? And the female retiree who’s been coming to the baths on a daily basis for years – making her way from each pool – coolest to hottest – before taking a steam. And the tourist couple that stands out like a sore thumb and keeps trying to make eye contact with the locals 🙂
We decided to give the outdoor pool a shot as the weather had cleared and when in Budapest, right? There were actually 3 outdoor pools and we chose the one with a lazy river. A lazy river?! Awesome. It also had personal lounges where you could be mostly submerged as jets pounded you with water. All the while you could take in the beautiful sky above.
Personal lounges at Lucaks
There were a ton of things we wanted to do so we headed back just as all of the crowds were arriving at Lukács. After a brief stop for an overpriced coffee surrounded by Americans from a river cruise :), we made our way back over the Chain Bridge to the Pest side of Budapest. We’d decided that since we missed the general free city tour the previous day, we’d join it today. Since we had some time we decided to peruse the Spring Fair at Vörösmarty Square and also take advantage of the yummy smells coming from the booths there. Let me just say – this was the best food we’d had all vacation! John got a huge pork sausage with all the trimmings – potatoes and beautiful veggies – and it was the best sausage I’ve ever had (sorry, Mom!). And then I got a Hungarian version of a gyro which was a fresh-grilled flatbread, chicken that looked like it had been cooking for hours, tomatoes, onions and sour cream. I opted out of the sour cream but this thing was delicious as well! Ooh, it was so good…
Pork Sausage at the Spring Fair
We had some time before our tour so headed back to a coffee shop we’d seen the previous day. John had a hard time finding “good” coffee while in Prague and Budapest so we were hoping this place would do the trick. Café Frei boasts a menu of coffee drinks from all over the world – everything from a Bedouin Coffee from Africa to an Aztec Chili Espresso from South America. We went with a Guatemalan Hazelnut Latte for me and a Mexican Café con Leche for John. Finally – good coffee for my baby! Unfortunately it came with a side of self-directed anger. John had been pick-pocketed at the Spring Fair. They didn’t make off with anything other than some cash, thank goodness, but it still sucked. PSA for anyone reading this! These guys know what they’re doing and it can happen to the most seasoned of travelers so take any precautions necessary to protect yourself.
Angry after being pick-pocketed
Getting silly at Cafe Frei
We were two for three on the free tours we’d taken during the trip – now we made it two for four. It was a large group of mostly 20-somethings and, rather than discuss a lot of Budapest’s history and sights, our guide decided to discuss the best places to drink and how to prevent a hangover and how to get home from the ruin pubs in the middle of the night. Not our thing! It was a short tour – to say the least…
One of the memorials John and I both really wanted to see is called “Shoes on the Danube”. It is located on the Pest side of the Danube and just a short walk from the stunning Parliament building. This is a memorial to the Budapest Jews who were killed by fascist militiamen during World War II. They were brought to the edge of the Danube and ordered to take off their shoes before being shot into the river that would carry their bodies away. Some of the sculpted shoes were filled with fresh flowers; other surrounded by burned-down candles. It is a moving and sobering memorial and I’m very glad I got to see it.
Shoes on the Danube
I wanted to just walk around the city a bit and return to the Jewish Quarter but the weather turned so we popped into a cozy little restaurant advertising Hungarian wine. Konyha was another one of those places that you just happen upon when traveling. This place was incredible! While it poured rain just outside the large open windows, John and I sipped the most amazing Hungarian wines we’d had yet! We sat for hours and talked and posted online and just hung out. It was one of my favorite times of the whole trip. And the bill? For 4 glasses of wine? Just over $11. Ok!
Wine at Konyha
Still pouring, we literally ran right across the street to a little bistro called Castro after the famous Cuban dictator. Another awesome place! You know you’re in the right place when there’s a table of local older gentleman playing cards and drinking beer. The atmosphere and the service were just what we were looking for.
I really wanted to see some live music during this trip and we were finally going to make that happen. A lot of the churches and basilicas in both Prague and Budapest advertise nightly live music. And then there are the jazz clubs in Prague. We decided to attend an organ concert in the spectacular St. Stephens Basilica – a Roman Catholic basilica named in honor of the first King of Hungary. This church is amazing on the outside and even more incredible on the inside! It is so ornate – everywhere you look is something different and fascinating. And the way the church was lit made it mysterious and romantic and simply gorgeous. There is a pipe organ in the church that will just take your breath away.
St. Stephens Basilica
There were 3 musicians – an organist, a pipe organist and a trumpet player – as well as a soloist. The music was wonderful and the sound in this venue seemed to go right through you. Beautiful music, gorgeous surroundings and the man I love – it was the perfect ending to our final day in Budapest…
Freezing cold, we literally almost ran up the hill to our hotel. But not before taking in our last unforgettable view of the Parliament building lit up at night…
Today I’m headed back home – happily. It’s time. My stomach is still telling me its time to leave this beautiful country. But this morning has been the icing on the cake and ingrained in me why I love to travel alone. My roommate left for the airport in the middle of the night so – as much as I really liked sharing a room with her – I was finally able to spend some time alone. I needed to leave for the airport at 11 so it wasn’t much time but after having coffee and some bread at my homestay, I got to talk with my host Ana Maria and her brother in broken Spanglish for about an hour. We talked about our families, our careers, our travels, how we’ve tried to learn languages – both badly – and even about diarrhea (I know!). It was amazing! Every time I do these things I learn things about myself or I re-learn things about myself. I know that when I’m alone I’m forced to get out of my comfort zone and try to connect to people. I do that through Spanglish and smiles. Lots of smiles. And its invigorating and makes me want to book the next trip. There is really nothing like it! Those of you that have traveled solo know what I’m talking about. Those of you who don’t know, I just hope you try. Because it’s life changing. It turns a trip into a learning experience and then some. Said in a much more eloquent way,
“I am not the same having seen the moon shine on the other side of the world”. Viva Cuba!
It’s the last full day in Cuba. It seems like its gone by way, way too fast. But I guess it’s almost time to get back to real life. We had to make our way by bus back to Havana via Santa Clara where we’d see the memorial to “Che” Guevera – who was born Argentinian but a huge figure in the Cuban revolution. He was very close to both Fidel and Raul Castro but ended up being killed in an ambush in Bolivia when he was in his 40s. Cubans think very very highly of Che which was evident in the amount of tourists waiting to get into the memorial. It was deathly hot and very humid and almost an hour wait but as in the past, worth it. The memorial is so well done. You enter a lovely windowless room with thriving fauna and soft lighting. Che was killed with 29 other revolutionaries in 1967 in an attempt to spur an uprising in Bolivia. Although he was killed in 1967 his remains were not given to Cuba until 1997. Construction of the memorial, however, started in 1982.
Che Memorial, Santa Clara
There are small memorials to all of the fallen soldiers on one wall. Che sits in the middle. It was interesting to me that only their first names were affixed next to their memorials. There was also a red carnation next to each one. Apparently on their birthdays they hang a white carnation to signify the day. At the other end of the memorial is the eternal flame dedicated to Che. It was sad and moving. Then you proceed to an area of the memorial that houses many photos of Che, from birth through death, with his family and with his friends and soldiers. There are also artifacts that belonged to him – his machete, belt, journal, letters he wrote to his wife(s) and the Castros. An absolutely fascinating – and admittedly, a very handsome – man.
Back to the bus for the final 4-hour trip to Havana. At this point me and this bus are NOT friends so I was not looking forward to it. But again, it’s the only way to get to where I want to be so…Fortunately, Tony loaded a movie for us. The movie is titled Fresa y Chocolate – strawberry and chocolate. It opened in 1993 and apparently signified a shift in the ways Cubans think and deal with homosexuals. It was a very sweet movie about a severely heterosexual man who was also a member of the young Communist party and the deep friendship he makes with a young flamboyant homosexual man in Cuba in 1979. It was interesting to see the extreme discrimination of homosexuals in Cuba just a little over 30 years ago. According to Tony, the discrimination was extreme and included not just verbal abuse but also physical. He said, however, that no longer exists and homosexuals are treated the same as every other Cuban.
Fresa y Chocolate
La cena ultimato – our last dinner together – was at a local Havana paladar called el idilio. We sat as a group under the stars amidst a beautiful breeze. As per usual, we ate and drank like crazy people and laughed a lot. There were toasts to both Tony our driver and Tony our guide and it was sentimental. These are sad moments for me. I feel like I forge a bond with these people over 9 days and countless miles and stories and sicknesses. They become a temporary family and it is always hard to say goodbye. And even more so for the guide, who shares himself intimately with the group. He was vulnerable and honest with us and there are no words that can adequately thank someone who does that. And the driver – another Tony – spoke no English but was beyond kind in his (Spanish) words and actions when I was sick.
I know I’ve said it countless times but it’s because its so important – these people are the reason I travel. And in this case they are so extremely different from me – the way they grew up, their schooling, their jobs and salaries and families, their thoughts about their government and what they can actually say about the governent. It’s beyong special to me to know about that.
Hotel Nacional, Havana, Cuba
Malecon, Havana, Cuba
We ended an amazing night at the beautiful Hotel Nacionale for an over-priced mojito, some local Cuban music and views of the teeming Malecon in the background. A beautiful ending to a beautiful trip.
Today was one of my favorite days! You know how when you feel better after having been so sick that you feel like you can do anything as long as you’re healthy? That was today for me. I finally – FINALLY – ate some food and drank some coffee for breakfast at my lovely casa particulare in Trinidad, on the southern coast of Cuba. It is a small Spanish colonial settlement town where you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. There are more horses on the original cobblestone streets than cars. It was deemed a UNESCO world heritage site in 1988 and since then the tourists have come in droves. And I can see why. This is a charming, romantic place with it’s architecture and history. The heart of the place is the charming Plaza Meyor – the main square. There are cobblestone steps here where people either sit at tables or just hang out on the steps to have a beer or dance to local musicians who play on the stage. The square is surrounded by historic buildings where people rent out their front rooms for sellers to hawk their wares. So there is a ton of shopping but it’s not in your face like in other areas. And people aren’t begging you on the street to come into their stores. There looks to be very nice art here as well.
Trinidad, Cuba
First on our itinerary was to visit Parque el Cubano, a short drive from Trinidad, to where we could hike to a waterfall and then go swimming in the watering hole. Trinidad seems be be considerably hotter than the other cities I’ve been to (that I can remember!) so a swim sounded absolutey amazing. The park was gorgeous. I may be turning more hippie as the days go by but it was a relief to be away from the city and the sounds and the smells and bask in fresh air and natural beauty. And we were one of the first groups on the trail so it wasn’t busy. The walk to the waterfall was only 3.6km so we had a nice, leisurely hike and then came up on the Javira Waterfall, which dropped only about 50 feet or so but was just stunning. It dropped from a cliff under which was a cave. I coudn’t wait to get in. A little cliff diving to get into the water? OK! It felt amazing and the water was cool and refreshing and oh so clean. I swam into the cave where you could see all of the beautiful and slighly creepy rock formations and the bats that were hanging out within them. It was seriously cool. In fact, it’s the highlight of my trip so far. Just beautiful. We hung in and around the water for a while just getting some sun and relaxing and talking before we headed back to Trinidad.
On the trail to Salto de Javira
The waterfall at Salto de Javira
Lunch! And boy was I hungry – which I thought was a very good sign of my health. We went to a “famous” paladar in the old town called San Jose where, guess who I saw? Michael and his tour group that I met in Havana on Saturday last week. Small world, huh? I knew we’d be in the same cities so was hoping to see them again. I felt kinda like the mayor – sitting at restaurant and seeing some old friends. And…the pizza was fantastic. I know, pizza in Cuba. But yes, I’d been craving it!
San Jose Restaurant Trinidad
We were given some free time to wander in Trinidad before dinner and the town is so charming. But, man, is it HOT. And it has no shade. What they call it here in English is “in the shadow”. So a guide will not say to get in the shade, they’ll say to get in the shadow. I was finally able to find some local, lovely art and some gifts for friends that didn’t include sinning (i.e. NOT cigars or booze).
As you walk this town you are inundated by it’s personality – or what I feel is it’s personality – and it has a distinct smell as well. It’s personality is slow and hot and sexy and romantic and thirsty (for more than just drinks). It’s stuck in the late 1800s and resisting the need to move forward. The scents of the city reflect this. You smell exhaust from the tour buses and classic cars, fragrant aromas of freshly cooked bread and pizza and more traditional dishes, sweat and sunscreen from the sunburned tourists and sometimes the droppings of horse and dogs. It is a heady mix – sometimes a good one and sometimes a bad, depending on your step. Regardless, it’s a city that will stay with you, one way or the other. And it is just filled with tourists. The locals you run into are in your homestay or serving at one of the restaurants, bars or shops.
Our evening was spent on the beach at Playa Alcon – the nicest beach in the southern part of Cuba. Cuba is known for it’s beautiful white sand beaches but those are in the north. This beach was….nice. It’s not the most beautiful I’ve seen but I’ve seen some amazing beach. This was white sand and ocean as far as the eye could see and that, to me, is enough. Some of us swam. I took advantage of the chance to swim in the ocean since I didn’t get to do that in the Bay of Pigs. The water is so, so clear! You can see down to your feet and some of the creepy things under the water (lots of sea urchins – ouch!). And literally you could see to the edge of the horizon and watch as the orange sun began to slowly dip into the sea. Simply beautiful and peaceful and calm and religious.
The sunset over Playa Ancon
We had a lovely picnic on the beach. Tony had hired a local band to play for us. Ok, the band was 2 young Cubans but they were amazing. Guitar and bongos and voices and that’s all they needed. Tony joined in playing the guiro (a Latin American percussion instrument that produces a rasping noise) and even our driver Tony joined in playing the claves (another Latin American percussion instrument that produces a bright clicking noise). It was an unforgettable time. The sun setting, surrounded by new friends, eating delicious food and drinking various Cuban cocktails. Unfortunately, my body was not ready to accept any form of alcohol but I did try Trinidad’s traditional Conchanchurra, which is an intoxicating mix of rum, lime juice and honey. So yummy!
Tony on the claves, Tony on the guiro and our own personal band
Beautiful red snapper served on Playa Ancon
We’d been hearing about the one thing in Trinidad that you could not miss – a local disco called Disco Alaya. It is a dance club….in a cave! Its something not to be missed so some of us made a stop there after returning from the beach.
The packed steps outside Casa de la Musica, Trinidad
Ok, so I set a few ground rules for myself when I turned 30. Two of them where 1. not to stand in a line to get into a bar – it can’t be that good! and 2. not to pay a cover charge. I have broken the rules a few times and for good reason and this was to be one of those times. We stood in a line for at least 30 minutes and then paid 5 CUCs AND had to check our purses (WTF – where do you put your money when you’re wearing a dress?!). But off we went. And in a word (ok, two) – worth it! We walked down about 30 steps or so and crossed over and looked up into this open cavern. Stalactites hanging down, jaggety rocks, odd formations and of course – a dance floor. It was wicked cool. How they hung up big screen TVs for music videos and a DJ booth I’ll never know but the atmosphere was on the verge of explosive – like it couldn’t wait to get there. The music was way too loud. The dancing was called reggaeton – which “blends musical influences of Jamaicandancehall and Trinidadiansoca with those of Puerto Rico, such as salsa, bomba, Latin American hip hop, and electronica” and is sung in Spanish. And the drinks were cheap and weak and way too small. It had a lot of charm. Picture Cubans and tourists in skimpy clothing dancing and singing as if no one was watching. Some couples hooking up in the corners and your senses inundated with sound and smell and sweat. Those of you that know me know that this is not my scene but I am so glad I went. I didn’t stay long but the fascinating mix of people and ages, the sensory overload and being able to see one of my tour mates dance with two local women and a transvestite was so worth the money!
I can’t even write about the next 2 days because I was so sick that all I could focus on was that. I swore that would never happen to me but there you go. I wanted my Mommy. I know we were at the Bay of Pigs and people swam there but that’s about all I can say. No, I can say that the kindness of people – even complete strangers – definitely came through. From a nice man in the local paladar setting me in a comfy chair under a fan to people carrying my bags and letting me lean on them and offering me medicine and water. It meant the world to me and helped me get through those 2 days. Now I’m just hoping to be able to eat again!
Day 4 was a full day spent exploring Viinales and it’s surrounding area. I got a small amount of free time before we all met where I parked myself on a bench in the main square and wrote. I do have to say, while I’m THOROUGHLY enjoying this tour and the super cool people on it, I need my alone time as well.
Vinales
Super-cool rock formations in Vinales
We were on and off the bus a lot today, seeing incredible views of the valley and some amazing limestone rock formations. We stopped by a local tabacco farm to learn about how they make Cuban cigars. The owner of the farm was hysterical. He spoke enough good English to have us all laughing. Surrounded by young tabacco plants, we went into the barn where the leaves are dried. You can’t imagine the yummy smell in there! Tabacco and dirt and humidity. It was great! While in there, he sat and showed us how he splits the leaves and rolls the cigars. It literally took him about 2 minutes to make one. Then he shared it with the group. Finally I got to try my first Cuban cigar. Do I like it? Eh, it’s ok. I love the smell, I’m not a huge fan of the taste.
A young tobacco field
A lesson on how to roll a cigar
We were then invited into the farmers home where we had some beautiful coffee and, of course, a shot of rum. Rum is definitely the theme of this trip! It was very nice to visit with this family because we could communicate and appreciate someone’s sense of humor. And I got to buy cigars for family and friends. You know who you are….
Me and the tobacco farmer
In the afternoon, Tony took us to a friend’s casa for a salsa lesson. Yay! More dancing! What a lovely home this was with a charming covered back patio where we danced. Since it’s the theme and the men needed it just to get onto the dance floor, there may have been more rum involved.
Finally we were off to another local farm where we were to have a cooking lesson and then dinner. This farm was on the side of a cliff so a different type of beautiful view. Absolutey stunning and the breeze looking out over the valey felt like silk on your skin.
Why not make fried plantains with a beer bottle?
We were taught how to make sauce for dipping bread, rice and beans, pork stuffed with garlic and orange juice (YUM) and friend plantains.
They cook everything on a charcoal stove outdoors. The don’t have electric stoves on these farms. It’s about a 5 foot long slab of concrete with an impression in the middle where they put the charcoal. Then they use handmade metal grills on which they place the pots and pans. Its very impressive and again, the smells are mouth watering. So we al stood around watching the cook work her magic as we sipped wine and sampled her offerings.
Tony helping our cook on their charcoal “stove”
We sat down for dinner at a table right on the cliff. It was a long dinner and we ended up playing games and laughing and telling stories as the sun went down and we filled our bellies. Another amazing meal and experience.
Our table for dinner…
More beautiful Vinales – the view from our table
Of course, next was dancing – again at the lone club. This time the boys had the balls – and a bit of liquid courage – to get out there with us. We closed down the bar. They had to kick us out. Ha! When was the last time that happened to me?! I honestly can’t recall!
Stories from a newly married, adventure seeking woman looking to see the world.
