Sunrise in Paros – you have to see it right??? John and I woke early, made my coffee and quickly booked it down to the port of Naousa to catch the sunrise behind the port. The traditional whitewashed houses/hotels/shops sit in front of where the sun rises so it slowly makes itself shown behind the stark white of the architecture. We stood on the wall to the old fort and watched Mother Nature say hello to the day. Most of the town was asleep of course, so we got amazing photos and got to hear the sounds of the town waking up – the peace of a soft “kalimera” from a stranger walking by, the swish of a restauranteur sweeping their floors, the CRASH of workers recycling all of the bottles from the Saturday night party the night before! 🙂 It was a wonderful start to the day!
John and I were both very excited about the rest of our day – a full day sailing tour around the small Cyclades. This was literally one of the first tours I had booked when we decided to go to Greece. And coincidentally, Claire and Mike (love you guys!) had done the same tour which I found out just hours after I booked. And they had simply loved it! Great minds….
The best laid plans….or so they say. The company confirmed out trip just last night. We arrived at the port 15 minutes early but there was no sign of our boat or any tour. We texted, we called, we asked random strangers – no one could get ahold of the tour operator. Finally someone was able to get us the name of the boat – the Lady K. It was there – staring at us in the face – but no one was aboard. And apparently no one could get ahold of the captain. We waited – texting and calling – for a good 45 minutes before the tour operator finally got ahold of the captain who had an “urgent” issue to attend to and wouldn’t make it. Happily the service of the tour operator was exceptional. They were very attentive and refunded our money almost immediately. But I was so sad. That’s not true – John would say I was ANGRY! This was a tour that I was really, really looking forward to.
Thank God for my husband. We both immediately got on our phones to see if there were any other options. I mean, it’s COVID times and shoulder season right? I had no luck but John was able to get ahold of Pantasoulas Daily Cruises – an outfit that operated 6 hour cruises from the port of Naousa – which we were no longer close to! But Ilias Pantasoula – the tour operator himself – texted John back immediately. It was 10:30 am. He had a tour leaving at 10:30 am and they would wait for us. Seriously?!?!?! So cool!
John navigated the Little Spark like a race car driver back to Naousa and we arrived at 10:55 to the welcoming smiles of Ilias and his gorgeous younger sister Dimitra. There was another couple onboard from Poland – Joanna and “who”Cash – who also had no problem waiting on the crazy American couple who ran into bad luck. These four people had totally changed our day around!
Off we went! I honestly think the best way to see an island is from the water. The perspective you get is just so different. This case was no exception. Even leaving the port of Naousa was stunning. To see the white, white, white of the buildings contrasting with the deep blue of the sea was just incredible.
Our first stop was North Santa Maria beach – one of two Santa Maria beaches – this one much smaller, not organized and to the north. It is still on Paros. Ilias had flippers and masks for us and let us loose. We could snorkel or head to the beach or just hang out.
Anyone who knows me knows that I’m pretty scared (understatement) of open water. So it was a bit of an effort and a “you can do it” to myself to get me in. But I did! And it was lovely – but still frightening. After hyperventilating a bit into the snorkel, I made my way to the beach. Here the four of us took the gray rocks and clay, added water, and gave ourselves a mud bath. Supposed to be amazing for your skin. We literally had the entire beach to ourselves! The girls stood there to let it dry and just chatted. What a lovely couple they are. Part of the experience of traveling is getting to know folks from other parts of the world. And I really enjoyed getting to know Joanna.
When we all got back to the boat, Ilias and Dimitra had cheese pie – made by their mother(!) – waiting for us. Delicious! It was then that we got to learn about the Pantasoulas family. Ilias and Dimitra’s father is a fisherman and was the man who helped untie our boat when we arrived, Ilias’ mother made some of the food. How cool is it that a family is that close and keeps the family business alive and…still likes each other? 🙂
Our next snorkeling spot was called Gouva according go Ilias. Unfortunately, Google doesn’t know about Gouva but it was another very secluded area with a reef to snorkel to. Needless to say, I didn’t make it that far. But at least I got in and doggie-paddled around for a bit, right?!
This time when we returned to the boat there was homemade wine from Pantasoulas family vineyard. Are you kidding?! I am not – I couldn’t make this up! It was simply wonderful! This man and his sister were so sweet and seemed so proud of their family and their business. It was rare and beautiful to see. And the wine was pretty good too!
Next up was Platia ammos, yet another very secluded beach on the Southern side of the island. Google does know about this one. We saw just one house on the entire peninsula. Apparently it’s protected land and the house was built before the rule was in place. Per Ilias it is a very tough place to get to by road so most approach by water.
Are you wondering what food was awaiting us this time?! This time it was a full lunch spread – Greek salad, multiple kinds of seafood, pasta with fresh tomato sauce and shrimp, fresh bread, homemade tzaziki. And all of it prepared by both Ilias and Dimitra! In fact as we were snorkeling, Ilias was grilling the fish on the boat. His father had caught it, he had marinated it in olive oil and vinegar and left it in the sun to dry and then he’d grilled it. Simply awesome! And for John, Greek salad with no tomatoes 🙂
Our last stop was Agia Kali which is the island John and I were able to see from Kolimbithres beach yesterday. The one with the small traditional church on it. We stopped here and were able to snorkel and play in the water. We were also able to hop on the island and see the church which is open all year. It was simply lovely. This island was where the Russians set up their headquarters in 1770 when Naousa was a Russian naval base. Apparently now they celebrate a religious festival here as well as many weddings. I can see the appeal!
Again you’re wondering what treat awaited us back on the boat? This time it was dessert – halva – made by Ilias and Dimitra’s mom. Made with semolina, sugar, egg and cinnamon, it was Devine – not to sweet with a lovely texture.
And then we had to return to real life. If you call vacation in Paros real life! I honestly have no words for the trip we were on today. It was wonderful! From the sweet Polish couple to Ilias and Dimitra to the views to the food and drink – it could not have been better! It’s days like where I know – truly and deeply – how blessed I am…
John and I had been waiting and searching for the right place and time to get a traditional gyro. I remember my first 🙂 In Mykonos with a hot, fresh French fry right in the middle of it. Delicious! Tonight was our night. I researched it! We went to Allos in Naousa based on their stellar reviews and the drooling we’d done walking by for the last two nights. Luckily on Sunday we were able to snag a table. A carafe of house white – lovely – and two chicken gyros – awful! We couldn’t believe it but, as Americans do, we weren’t going to eat something that wasn’t what we wanted. I knew what I wanted and this was cold and the pita was bad. Just yuck… we paid and went onto another place with stellar reviews. Take two right?
Souvlaki Kargas finally did us right! Fresh, hot, filled with meat, chicken and tzatziki and tomato – it was delicious! And right in a corner in the buzzy town so very very good people watching!
What a seriously fantastic day! It’s the ones that aren’t what you’re prepared for that turn out to be so great. And for that I’ll go to sleep with gratitude and a silly grin on my face!