Category Archives: Switzerland 2018

Vin Chaude and Santa flying through the air

Today was a rest day for the Cacheris’s! We needed it after averaging about 9 miles a day!

We set off on foot mid morning to take in the famous Castle de Chillon – this is a must-do based on the research I’ve done. You can walk the lake promenade the entire way there which seems to always be picturesque. And of course shop at all of the market stalls along the way. In so doing we stopped at a stall that was just opening to peruse the gorgeous leather and silver bracelets. We ended up talking to Arthur – the owner and artist behind Surpiqure.

One of the gorgeous bracelets at Surpiqure

Not only did we love the jewelry but again the conversation was what made the experience extraordinary. John asked about French politics and again, the vendor’s way of life – traveling over France and Europe to sell his jewelry. And about how his internet business is picking up. And about how the weather really dictates the success of his business during Montreux Noël. Very cool, very fascinating guy! We’re both grateful – again – for these moments during our travels. John calls them serendipitous. It’s an appropriate word and one of the things we both adore about seeing the world – it’s people!

Off to Chillon!

The impressive Castle de Chillon

Castle de Chillon is a medieval fortress sitting on the shores of Lake Geneva. It is the most visited monument in Switzerland. The oldest parts of the castle haven’t been definitively dated but the first written record of the castle is 1005! It is most known for it’s use as a prison in the 16th century. It’s most famous prisoner is Francois Bonivard on whom Lord Byron’s famous poem “The Prisoner of Chillon” is based. In fact Byron even carved his name on one of the pillars in the castle’s dungeon.

Perhaps more compelling to readers, Chillon also inspired the castle in Disney’s The Little Mermaid 🧜‍♀️

It was an enormous, haunting castle with incredible views of the lake from every window. And contrary to some museums I’ve been in, there was a ton of information on the history of each and every room.

I wasted – and loved! – the next few hours sitting poolside in the Fairmont’s Willow Stream Spa.

I really wanted to do the tourist thing and head down to Montreux Noël and partake in a Vin Chaude (hot mulled wine) in one of the specially erected bars on the promenade. It seemed like visitors and locals alike were down there drinking their hot wine and having a good ‘ole time. The problem with this plan, however, is that I’m not a fan of hot wine. I have more of a love/hate relationship with it. I love the feel of wrapping my hands around a steaming cup but — it just doesn’t taste good! It was a sacrifice I was willing to make. John and I split a Vin Chaude Blanc – which is better than a hot red wine – but only slightly.

We headed down the promenade – hot wine in hand – to see the one thing we did not want to miss!

See, every evening during Montreux Noël Santa Claus rides through the night air in his flying sleigh! They have cleverly raised cables high above the huts of the market and the sleigh literally flies through the air and stops directly in front of the Ferris wheel. He even has fireworks shooting from the runners of the sleigh as he takes off. And to top it all off, once he gets to his destination he stops – suspended in the air – and whips out his guitar and starts singing! We think it was the French version of “Go Tell it on the Mountain” it was sooooooo cheesy – and sooooooo cool.

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We decided before the trip to have at least one nice dinner. The concierge at the Fairmont recommended Restaurant 45 at the Grand Hotel Suisse Majestic. It got rave reviews and we were so excited. Well we were sorely disappointed ☹️. The food was average at best – bland is the best way to describe it. And when I asked for wine recommendations, the waiter poured tastes for John to try. Only John- I had to try his. Needless to say this didn’t sit well with me. And the atmosphere – just eh. I’m positive the views were gorgeous but as it was dark that didn’t matter. We left completely dissatisfied.

Back to the Fairmont and Funky Claude’s Bar – a bar attached to our hotel boasting live music every night. This place was fun! Two “mature” men – one on the electric guitar and one on the sax playing good old fashioned American rock music.

We ended on a solid high!

Welcome to Montreux…Noel!

Montreux is a relatively small town on the shores of Lake Geneva known worldwide for the Montreux Jazz Festival – an international jazz festival held every summer. And of course for its Christmas market held every winter.

A couple of things to note about Montreux – in full disclosure I’m comparing it to Zermatt.

First the location – and therefore the views – are completely different. Zermatt lies deep in a valley and is surrounded by the jagged – and massive – peaks of the Swiss Alps. Montreux sits on Lake Geneva so you see the still, sparking water with the softer snow-capped Swiss Alps in the background. It was just slightly cloudy and the low clouds hovered about halfway down the mountain making for a surreal vista.

Montreux is so French! Whereas in Zermatt we practiced our German here we’re a bit more comfortable using our limited French. But it’s such a lovely language that it is a pleasure to try to speak it. Also contrary to Zermatt, there are many signs and menus that are only in French.

Although the population of Montreux is only slightly above 26k you can definitely tell that people make their life in this town. There are moms feeding their little ones on benches in the park and business men in suits getting off the bus on their way from work. Because it’s not solely a resort town the pace is much quicker and, yes I’ll say it, the people you encounter slightly ruder.

Or first stop was to our hotel – the infamous Fairmont Le Montreux Palace. I splurged on this one and was really hoping for something magnificent. Well I could tell from the first moment we walked in that we would not be disappointed! It is a massive, historic, gorgeous hotel right on the Swiss Riviera. It’s already tastefully decorated for the holidays with white lights draped along the banister of the central staircase and an elegant Christmas tree right at the reception desk. It was love at first sight for me! At this point in the trip I think we were both worn out and the idea of a little luxury was very welcome!

We were happily welcomed by reception and shown to our 4th floor room with 3 terraces – one of which overlooks Lake Geneva and the distant Swiss Alps. The room is romantic, elegant and charming with the historic touches of crown molding, carved wood ceilings and a marble bath featuring a jacuzzi tub (yay!!!!)

As if I weren’t about to swoon already, we were greeted with a spread of Swiss chocolate, French macarons and a Chocolate Petit Gateaux.

Swiss chocolate and French macarons – great combination!
The lovely superior room at the Fairmont
Our view…enough said

It was time to explore our new city so we set off to the nearby town of Vevey. Vevey was on John’s shortlist for places to stay in Switzerland. It was a scenic walk down the lake and we thought the movement would do us good. The views were phenomenal during most of the walk where pedestrians were permitted to walk right on the lake. But our destination…not so phenomenal! I will say, there is an Alimentarium in Vevey – a food museum – that we did not go into. I feel like doing that may have changed my mind about the town. But John and I both found it a bit depressing and dreary and somewhat sad. It’s not a place I’d recommend.

Next on our list was to explore Montreux’s famous Christmas market called Montreux Noël. The market essentially begins at our hotel – in the gardens out front – and continues for 1 kilometer – all the way to the Montreux Casino. It contains 160 delightfully decorated timber stalls featuring food, hot mulled wine (vin chaude) and vendors selling everything from jewelry to elf slippers. It’s incredible! There is a massive Ferris wheel for kids and adults alike, live music and even Santa literally flying on his sleigh! We were like little kids as we saw the sights – and all of the twinkle lights!

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One of the coolest things we saw was the La Redoute House of Wishes which is situated in the indoor heart of the market. All are welcome to grab a small card and write what they wish for. Allegedly the wishes will be sent directly to Santa. Appropriately John and I wrote almost the same message ❤️

John’s wish
My wish

We were completely exhausted at this point but John noticed lights reflected on the beautiful Fairmont of the way back. After a brief rest we had to check it out. This year a brand new light show was included as part of the Christmas market – provided by the Fairmont – to project lights onto the facade of the hotel. The show includes the fantastic light display and Christmas music every evening during the season. What a festive way to end our first day in Montreux!

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THE BEST RESTAURANT IN ZERMATT (food , service, wine, presentation)

Note to readers that I’ve only been in Zermatt for 3 days so am definitely not an expert. But in my opinion John and I found the best restaurant in town!

Since we arrived late Saturday we’d walked by Marie’s Deli numerous times and I think John got tired of me saying “I want to go there”. It being named a deli and me craving a traditional European sandwich, we decided to try it on our final night in Zermatt.

We both now agree that it was the best meal we’ve had all week long!

The restaurant is part of the Mirabeau hotel which I wrote about in a previous post. It is definitely not your traditional deli although the owner, Francis Reichenbach, did emulate the delis of New York City in its design. It is a small, cosy, kitschy, charming restaurant filled with framed photos and books lining the walls. A large photo of a smiling Aunt Marie – the restaurant’s namesake – is prominently displayed on one wall. Fresh white roses blanketed by fragrant greenery adorn every table. And the deli case is something to be seen! Fresh meats and cheeses and fruit, oh my!

Lovely table setting at Marie’s Deli
Wanderlust – a strong desire to travel

We were greeted by the same wonderful server – Francesco – who served us during our previous visit and introduced us to the lovely Coeur du Domaine wine. He remembered us and quickly brought us a glass of the same as well as a basket of freshly baked bread and a plate of cured meat and fresh Parmesan cheese drizzled with honey. He proceeded to recommend a few of his favorite dishes but my mind was on sandwich! This deli did not have the traditional European sandwich and I’m very thankful for that. I settled on a Croque Monsieur and John went with one of Francesco’s recommendations – Huhnchen in Riesling Sauce (chicken in Riesling sauce) – as well as a cup of Pumpkin Curry soup.

Now to my favorite part. As we sipped the delicious wine and snacked on the delicious bread and cheese, the hotel’s owner – Francis – came over to say hello. It was wonderful to talk to him! John asked many questions about the Zermatt way of life – things we’d been wondering about since our arrival. And he told us how the restaurant came to be as well as about his travels to the US. It is so nice to talk to locals when you travel and he was very kind!

Next up – the food! First the presentation. The meals were served atop wooden platters made specifically to fit the French-themed, delightfully-labeled glass bowls that each part of the meal was served in. John’s soup was served this way and accompanied by a smaller, labeled bowl of sour cream to top the soup. My salad came out in a larger glass bowl. The fig dressing came in a separate small bowl. Francesco said I was to pour the dressing in the bowl, replace the glass top and “shake it like a martini”. Yes…ok! And John’s Huhnchen in Riesling Sauce came out in three separate glass bowls, one for the chicken itself, one for the mashed potatoes and one for the ratatouille. The presentation was so unique! And well thought out. And the darling labels were such a nice addition!

The exquisite deli counter!
Chicken in Riesling sauce – check out the labels!
Beautiful Croque Monsieur

And the food itself? Delicious! Everything was fresh and oh so heavenly! We both agreed that it was our favorite meal in Zermatt.

Having stuffed ourselves we decided to head to our next destination – we had a date with a piano bar after all. But instead Francesco approached us with a splendid after dinner drink – an apple liquor garnished with a fresh green-apple slice – that was made by Francis’ sisters-in-law. It tasted like cider with a kick! Lovely! And then Francis came over to offer us gin & tonic glacé (ice cream)! Unfortunately our bellies couldn’t take it and we passed.

What a phenomenal experience! Francis said the deli concept hasn’t caught on yet in Zermatt. Well if anyone is reading this that finds themselves there please try it! It will be worth it! No where else in Zermatt were we welcomed so completely!

I’m a sucker for a piano bar and the lovely Park Hotel was decorated to the nines for the holiday so off we went. The hotel was just as beautiful up close. But the piano bar…eh! Instead of just playing my favorite instrument, the musician decided to “jazz it up” by adding recorded drum and guitar accompaniment. And he added some singing on top of that! There were a few guests who really enjoyed this – snapping and singing along – but it just wasn’t the relaxing, soft music we were hoping for. Thank goodness for my hot husband and our conversation to distract me!

Day 3 in this beautiful place was absolutely awesome! Every single moment of it! Tomorrow we are off to the French-speaking town of Montreux which sits right on Lake Geneva. More to come…

The Matterhorn in full view!!!

Day 3 was absolutely incredible! The Matterhorn finally showed itself – and it was definitely worth the wait!

It started cloudy again but the forecast was promising. But regardless of any stinkin’ forecast we were committed to going to the top of the mountain! We figured we’d spend some more time hiking with the hopes that the more time went by the likelier we’d see the mountain. Again we stopped at the tour office to figure out how to get to the trailhead. More bad news…the gondola to the top of the mountain was closed…due to wind. In all honesty I was severely disappointed! But – she said – the weather may change; it may be open later in the day. With positive thoughts we set out on our hike.

And the weather was clear – not clear enough to see the Matterhorn – but clear enough to see the other peaks and enjoy incredible views!

Today we chose the only direction we hadn’t been yet – towards the Matterhorn. We hiked alongside the valley and the Matterhorn Glacier Palace gondola to the sweet hamlet of Zmutt. In my eyes Zmutt is straight out of a fairytale. It was – probably obviously – closed for the season so it was deserted but one could picture the charm of the place anyway. It is a small village of tiny, closely huddled houses and barns and of course a hotel and bars for the apres ski crowd. It was adorable. The views toward and away were out of a picture book. This was by far my favorite spot of any hike we’ve done so far. And all along the Matterhorn – still behind clouds – lurked.

A view of most of Zmutt
A chalet at the edge of Zmutt
The sweet hamlet of Zmutt

The hike was amazing because of the views of the mountain peaks ahead and to the right, the views of the valley to the left, and the views of Zermatt itself behind. Everywhere you looked was something new and stunning!

After continuing on past Zmutt we came upon the ugliest building I’ve seen on our trip! Modern and made of concrete – awful. Well come to find out it is a hydroelectric power company that collects the water from a nearby damn and uses pumps to raise to an altitude of 2400 meters where it bores thought tunnels in the middle of the mountain to the Lac des Dix – a Swiss mountain lake. And I must say, the building itself was ugly but the view from the bridge over the Zmuttbach river was jaw dropping! Picture a deep valley with giant icicles raining down and huge evergreen trees draped in snow…

A river in the valley – huge icicles
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It was on to the ski hamlet of Furi and the location of the mountain station to get to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.

The Matterhorn Glacier Paradise was my number 1 thing to do in Zermatt so I was literally crossing my fingers that the wind had died down and the gondola opened. Thanks again to the wonderful tour operators – this time a lovely woman with a humongous smile – who said that it was open!!! She may have giggled when I clapped my hands like a small child! If nothing else I made her smile bigger 😀

Half of the trip was on the “old” Matterhorn Express part of which began running in 1962 and now reaches halfway to the Glacier Palace. We changed gondolas at Trockener Steg and boarded the new Matterhorn Glacier Ride – a new and extremely impressive cable car that opened just last month! Prior to the you could still reach the glacier palace via cable car but only via one of two 100-seat cabins.

The Matterhorn Glacier Paradise is the highest cable at station in Europe and boasts over 425,000 visitors in 2017 alone. I can see why!

The ride to the top of the mountain is hard to describe. Gorgeous of course. But also scary and ominous. Seeing the massive mountain with wind whipping the snow around them was just impressive. And parts of the glacier itself – colored that unique blue and sporting scary deep crevasses – was awe inspiring.

Yes that’s the Matterhorn behind that cloud
Crevasses in the glacier

We finally reached the top. First thing to note – it is very, very, very windy and oh so cold! I mean you’re on a glacier right?!

We headed right for the Glacier Palace – a winter wonderland 15 meters beneath the glacier. It is a playground in the ice – for adults and children alike! Upon entry you walk through an ice tunnel – you’re walking through the glacier. At the end of the tunnel and exquisite ice sculptures of all types – from Jade Dragon to sculpted ice crystals to wolves howling mountainside. You can also sit on an ice throne and be the king or queen of Glacier Palace!

The ice tunnel in Glacier Palace
John and I in the ice tunnel
Jade Dragon
I am the ice queen!

We made a pit stop in the cafe on top of the mountain to thaw out a little and then made our way to the 360 degree viewing platform. At this point you’re at 12739.5 feet! And boy did it feel like it. The winds were so harsh you felt like they’d toss you off the mountain. And the snow and temperature…well it would be a quick visit.

We still hadn’t seen the entire Matterhorn! Don’t get me wrong, there have been stunning bits and pieces of it but I’d yet to see the famous peak that I’ve read so much about. So fingers crossed again! Perhaps needless to say buy that gorgeous beats of a mountain remained elusive. We did, however, see a lot of it. What was interesting to me was the fact that all of the other peaks were very clear but it seemed like the clouds hung onto the Matterhorn. Perhaps it’s a specific weather pattern – I’m not sure. But it made for stunning photos.

We were also able to see the famous Breithorn peak which is just a mere 400 meters smaller than the Matterhorn but just as impressive.

Breithorn mountain

And – so cool – we could even see Mount Blanc – IN FRANCE – from up here. Words can’t do it justice!

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At this point we were exhausted and frozen. It was back to the gondola to make our way down to Zermatt. As we traveled down – wait for it! – the clouds parted and there she was in all her glory. The Matterhorn! A clear, otherworldly view of a giant, beautiful, scary mountain. YES! Again I was like a kid in a candy store. Even John was speechless. I’m not sure there are enough words to describe seeing this. I don’t think there are. This is something you must EXPERIENCE!

THE MATTERHORN!!!

Drop the mic!

But wait there’s more. I’d been wanting to see the view of Zermatt from a rooftop terrace at the Omnia hotel – a 5-star hotel in the heart of the city. We decided to take advantage of the clear afternoon and head up. This is also a must do in my opinion. It’s a completely different perspective of the town and the gorgeous Matterhorn and definitely worth the time.

View of Zermatt town from the terrace of the Omnia

View of the Matterhorn from the terrace of the Omnia

Day 2 – 2.5 hours Zermatt to Sunnegga; 5 minutes Sunnegga to Zermatt

We woke to similar weather as day 1. There were glimpses, however, of the Matterhorn. It’s an elusive gigantic mountain – it will show you bits of it but not the entire majestic thing!

We would not be derailed! We both really wanted to go cross country skiing and had no problem doing it in the rain. We just weren’t sure the trails would be open. “No, no, not yet” according to the girl in the tourist office. Next plan – more hiking! This time to another mountain called Sunnegga. And it was possible to hike the entire way. Off we went.

This time beginning in the town of Zermatt and walking in a different direction than we’d been so far. I have always loved getting “lost” in anew place and although not lost we were able to see a part of Zermatt we had yet to see. After a left at “the church” we came upon the mountaineers cemetery tucked behind the church. It serves as a memorial to the climbers who have lost their young lives climbing the Matterhorn and the surrounding mountains. There are climbers from all over the world and their agree are mostly very young – 20 somethings. One gravestone, however, commemorates two guides who died of natural causes. They were the guides to lead the first climb up the Matterhorn. It included a party of seven, all of which reached the summit but only three returned to Zermatt in the end. In fact, the Matterhorn and surrounding mountains continue to be some of the deadliest peaks in the world.

Trying to be artistic in the climbers cemetery
Haunting grave marker

The cemetery was tragic and beautiful. One can only hope these young people died doing what they loved…

Onward to the trailhead. This time we’d be ascending the mountain. And the climb was just as beautiful as day 1’s but in a completely different way. We started hiking through the forest pines again, always able to see a brief glimpse of Zermatt behind and down from us. Eventually we walked right into the misty clouds and found ourselves on the edge of the mountain.

For the most part we were by ourselves. Since it was so cloudy – we were literally in the clouds! – it was the sounds that struck me. The sound of our boots in the slush; our breath; the sound of a waterfall on our right; snippets of superficial as well as meaningful conversations. These are the reasons why I love hiking!

The higher we went, the whiter the world became and the slush gradually turned to snow. We passed through more mountain “towns” – groups of little huts almost in the middle of nowhere – one of which is called Findeln, formerly Findelen. The timber houses were deserted and we wondered when they wouldn’t be. Well, apparently this village is world renowned for its mountain cuisine. The town is only accessible on foot – or ski! – as there are no other modes of transportation to get there. Fascinating!

The view from Chez Vrony – a famous mountain restaurant – on a clear day
My favorite wine cellar! In the middle of the climb outside a famous restaurant called Chez Vrony

As we ascended the mountain the whiteout conditions were interesting as so confusing! There were points when the sun would briefly break through – allowing us a stunning view of the peaks behind the clouds. And then literally within 10 seconds the clouds would reappear to mask the view. It was super cool!

Just a glimpse of the mountain when the sun peaked through

Again we got lost – but just a little! They really do a nice job marking the path with those hot pink poles but when you can’t see more than 50 feet ahead of you they can be hard to spot! Luckily John and I make a good team but I wouldn’t let him out of my site. I was afraid he’d walk into the whiteness and I wouldn’t be able to see him again. Perhaps a silly fear but a fear just the same.

We hugged and puffed and eventually got to Sunnegga – 2.5 hours of a very difficult hike. It’s like a fish story – the more we talk about it the steeper it becomes! So it was a relief to reach Sunnegga.

Sunnegga ski piste

Sunnegga is definitely made for families. Wolli’s park is specifically made for beginners learning how to ski. From here there are a multitude of athletic options – skiing, snowboarding and hiking in winter; swimming, hiking, biking and marmot-watching in summer!

We were achy and sweaty so decided to take the funicular ride back to Zermatt. This railway was built right into the rocks of the mountain and literally gets you back to Zermatt in 4.5 minutes! 2.5 hours to get up; 5 minutes to get back down!

Our afternoon and evening were spent exploring the sweet town of Zermatt. Shopping is the name of the game here. John has been glancing longingly and the multitude of Swiss watch shops so we decided to venture into the Omega shop. Let’s just say I felt like Pertty Woman when she was still in her working-girl clothes and trying to get service in an upscale shop! But Valerie was very friendly and helpful. John tried on a few stunning watches. He decided he liked one that was only $4500 with Valerie’s exclusive discount (what?!?!). Needless to say we left without a watch but mark my words – someday I will buy my husband his dream watch…

Zermatt’s Main Street – Bahnhofstrasse

I was craving a glass of local wine while sitting next to a cosy fireplace that we’d seen on our first night. It is called Chami Bar and was exactly what the doctor ordered! We snuggled up on a couch next to a roaring fire and sampled some more local wine – this time two whites called Johannisberg and Petite Arvine – both yummy of course but incomparable to the Coeur du Domaine from day 1.

We decided to wander off the Main Street to find somewhere to eat and came upon Chez Gaby! Since this is John’s daughter’s name we decided why not? It was a small, warm restaurant decorated for Christmas whose specialty was grilled meat. Ok! And our little corner table reminded me of the snugs in Ireland.

John in the snug at Chez Gaby

A day in Zermatt isn’t complete in our minds without chocolate! But since all of the chocolaterie’s were closed at this point it was a mad dash to Denner the local grocery. But we made it!

An evening of chocolate, rest and good books completed another amazing day in paradise…

Day 1 – Zermatt > Gornergrat > Rotenboden > Riffelberg > Riffelalp > Ritti > Winkelmatter > back to Zermatt

Day 1 in Zermatt did not disappoint. First, a couple of things to know about Zermatt. The train ride up is gorgeous! You will travel through a lot of small towns – some of which are right on Lake Geneva and offer stunning views of the mountains. However, once the sun goes down, all is pitch dark! So pulling into the station in Zermatt was sweet. It’s a small, walkable town at the foot of humongous mountains with little restaurants and bars and tons of white lights. Outside of some of these bars are seats that offer fur on the chairs and your own personal blanket.

Zermatt is also definitely a skiers town. Tourists can be seen walking the town in their ski boots and shop after shop after shop is dedicated to the sport.

We woke to a pretty ugly day in Zermatt. It was so overcast that you couldn’t even see the Matterhorn! We think we caught a glimpse of one of the leftmost peaks but still are not sure. Regardless the scenery is stunning. The forecast called for rain pretty much all day long. But — when it rains in the valley, it snows on the mountain! So up we went after warnings that it would pretty much be a whiteout and most of the hiking trails were closed.

We took the famous Gornergrat Bahn (railway) – a cog railway from Zermatt to Gornergrat. This railway was built in 1898 and the first electric rack railway built in all of Switzerland. We traveled slowly up the mountain surrounded by fresh, beautiful power snow. The further up we went, the less we could see on account of all of the snow. It was lovely!

View on a clear day@
Our view!
View on a clear day
Our view!

Well, you’re supposed to have one of the best views of the Matterhorn from Gornergrat – they boast 360 degree views of 38 4,000 meter peaks out of a total of 48 in all of Switzerland – including the Matterhorn. But all we saw was snow! And clouds – which were beneath us at this point. It was fun to trounce around in the snow and make fun of the fact that all we could see was WHITE!

We wanted to do some snow hiking which isn’t accessible directly from Gornergrat so we traveled back down to a very small ski stop called Rotenboden. From there we got on the Panorama Trail to Riffelberg. We were one of only 2 couples on the mountain and at times you couldn’t even see the other couple on account of the snow and mountains. We trekked over and down the mountain surrounded by pristine whiteness. In some places the only other tracks were of the couple ahead of us. It was like our own little mountain. I can see how it could be a bit scary – our conversation included the Donner Party, Into Thin Air and that infamous movie Alive – but the trail was well marked with hot pink poles. Even with the snow you could still pick them out.

Trail head at Rotenboden

We were greeted in Riffelberg by a sweet little chapel at the trailhead. And of course skiers getting off the train and gondola to head further down the mountain. After stopping for a wonderful goulash in the lodge, we got back on the train to head to our next hike.

Chapel on entry to Riffelberg

Off at Riffelalp we found that there were trails to take us all the way into Zermatt. The first is called the Forest Trail which leads through a typical mountain forest. We were surrounded by Swiss pine trees. Only when there was a clearing could you see the mountains beyond. It was so peaceful! And again we had the trail completely to ourselves. Someone had definitely been up there but were nowhere to be seen.

Each bench along the trail says “glad to see you” in four languages

On our way down to Zermatt we passed a few little “towns”. Some of them had a hotel, and all of them had bars. Because we are here during shoulder season, these bars on the mountain are closed. We could easily picture the places teeming with the apres-ski crowd that would be there in just a couple short weeks. One of the famous ones to check out – if it’s open – is called Hennu Stahl (the party place). Here it is during high season.

Hennu Stahl Apres Ski

We made our way back down into the valley of Zermatt and ended up at the end of the small pedestrian only town. It was a wonderful hike – and day! And we were exhausted and very hungry.

Cue some relaxation and some snacks and we were back out to sample some typical Swiss wine. We had passed Josef’s Wine Bar and thought it would be a perfect way to start. Well, Josef’s is not yet open for the season but we ended up at the hotel bar where it’s housed – Hotel Mirabeau. They have a lovely little bar in their lobby with a warm inviting fireplace and a wonderful waiter who seemed to really know his wines.

While doing research for the trip I learned that this area of Switzerland is rapidly making a name for itself in wine production. The region is called Valais. There are a lot of smaller vineyards that take advantage of the unique climate and produce some beautiful wine.

The first white I tried is called Fendant – which it seems you can get anywhere in Zermatt. It also seems to be the most affordable. While I liked it, the second wine was amazing! Called Coeur du Domain, it was a white blend of Petite Arvine and Marsanne grapes. It was really, really nice! Even John liked this white – even more than his red which was a traditional Swiss Pinot Noir. We sat by the fire and drank these beautiful wines before heading closer to town for some well-earned dinner.

We’d walked by Gusto Matto a few times and it looked warm and inviting so in we went. Deciding to split meals was a good idea. We started with a gorgeous Tagliere vegetariano – which was grilled vegetables drizzled in olive oil and served with tomino cheese. Wow – was it amazing! And then we split a spicy salami pizza – YUM!

This place is incredible and we’ve had a wonderful day! It’s like another planet – the money, the scenery, the food, the wine. I’m so excited to explore some more.

On deck, more hiking up closer to the Matterhorn on a hopefully clearer day and some good old-fashioned cross country skiing.