Category Archives: South America

Day 8 – A fantastic night in El Calafate

I didn’t know it was possible for the days to keep getting better – especially the days that are supposed to be filled with the mundane – like travel days are supposed to be. There’s not much to tell about the travel except for the Buenos Aires marathon was going on. Who knew, right? It just meant more traffic on the way to the airport.

In the spirit of total coincidence – because I was searching for seat where I could stretch out and sleep – I ended up sitting next to Rafael who was on holiday from Venezuela. We just got into a really nice conversation and the flight passed by in an instant. We decided to share a taxi to El Calafate but instead ended up on a bus with a bunch of other tourists. I have to say that the views – both while flying into the airport and on the ride to El Calafate were not amazing. But I’d learn to not judge a book by its cover.

El Calafate is adorable! A sweet little – very little – town at the base of the mountains. My hotel – Posada Los Alamos – was adorable. I needed to unpack and repack and then I was off for a glass of wine and some food. I’d given Rafael my name and as I was getting out of the bus he said “I’ll find you later”. Little did I know that he was actually serious. As I was having wine at a restaurant across the street, the bartender asked my waiter, “Is that Aimee?” I guess he would find me later, right?! Rafael and I ended up having dinner together and decided to go for a walk since it was absolutely stunning outside and it had started snowing!

We ended up at the casino in El Calafate just because we wanted to check it out. It turns out there was a company – Calafate Salsa – teaching some salsa and bachata classes in the bar area. We had a seat and decided it was worth a shot. Well, that turned into hours of dancing and drinking wine and laughing and just having a blast! I think – but I can’t be sure – that it was 3 am when we finally left. We walked outside to a winter wonderland! Everything was covered with a gorgeous fluffy blanket of snow. It was lovely. And my evening and my date were lovely too! I have seriously met the most incredible people here and he was no exception. Honestly, I’m still smiling about the entire experience and I hope! hope! hope! we’ll see each other again. What an amazing man…

Day 7 – Dancin’ in the Streets

My last day in Buenos Aires was probably my best day. And that’s saying a lot! I had the entire day to myself to explore one last time. It was a gorgeous day! Mid 60s and clear, crisp, blue skies. After sleeping in I headed out to a café called Oui Oui that I read about on a local food blog – www.pickupthefork.com. It was excellent. With all of the meat and potatoes I’ve been eating it was a nice change to get fresh fruit and yogurt and granola. With a fully belly, it was time to just wander and do a little shopping.

I especially wanted to go to a park I’d passed by while on the Buenos Aires Bus called Parquet Tres de Febrero. It was this gorgeous green space with a running/biking/rollerblading trail and 3 small lakes in the middle. I’d brought my book and thought I’d find a good spot and people watch, read and take advantage of the beautiful day. As soon as I walked up to this area I knew I’d picked the right place. The first cool thing I came upon was a live band. Just in the park in the middle of the day. There might have been an occasion – I’m not sure – but the park was crammed with smiling, laughing locals and tourists. This also happens to be the location of Rosedal which are the botanical gardens in the middle of the city. This area is simply stunning! So much green and acres of flowers – 18000 rose buses – and sweet gazebos and bridges and the pond in the background. While exploring I came upon some more live music. Here there was a sign for what was going on. It was an event put on by Greenpeace called Salva el Artico – which translates to Save the Arctic. The Argentinian band was singing mostly American songs but it was so neat to be part of something. So I did find a spot and laid down and people-watched and took it all it. The sun was shining down on me and warming me up, I could hear the music, children’s laughter and birds. I could even smell all of the lovely flowers. It was a peaceful, amazing time.

Hungry, I set out to find some lunch. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again that my favorite days in a foreign country involve me stumbling upon something completely out of the ordinary. That’s exactly what happened next and it was freakin’ awesome! As I was leaving the park, I saw a big crowd of people dancing in the street. They just looked like they were having a blast. There was a sign nearby that said “Gratis” (free). So what did I do? I joined them! It was amazing. I danced in the street – literally – with about 60 or 70 Argentinians! We did some salsa, some jazz and even hip hop. It was just so much fun – I can’t even put it into words. We were laughing, we were sweating, we were falling all over the place and just enjoying every single moment. I will never forget it!

I’d asked Emma if she wanted to have dinner with me again and we planned to go to a typical Argentine restaurant that my teacher had recommended. I love getting recommendations from locals and this one did not disappoint. It was in the Belgrado barrio of BA on a side street and was absolutely adorable. Since it was my last night, I definitely wanted to splurge and try more local cuisine. So we shared a spicy beef empanada and a Humita empanada which was stuffed with corn and cheese and was delicious. Then I had the local dish called Locro. Cynthia – my teacher – had told us about this dish. It is very typical in BA – especially in the winter. It’s like a stew. With corn and beans and pumpkin and pieces of meat (of course). Oh, it was oh so good! That, great conversation and more Torrentes…it was a lovely dinner!

Emma had searched for a bar with some live Latin music so we were off for more fun. While at the next bar, her friend Sergio showed up with his friends. It was 1 in the morning and they were raring to go. Sergio really wanted to show Emma the city in all its after-hours glory. So we went to the famous secret bar that I was supposed to go to with Hernan on Tuesday! Frank’s Bar. I’d read about this bar and was very excited to go. The way to get into this bar – unlike the simple black door entrance of Puertouna – was through an old-fashioned telephone booth! Again, I don’t know what Sergio had to say to get us in but it worked. And again, behind this telephone booth was another trendy, stylish bar. I’m not going to lie – getting to do these great things makes me feel young and hip! Not a bad feeling for this 40-year-old. Unfortunately, we didn’t stay long because apparently the Mojitos were way too watered down. Sergio’s girlfriend definitely had to translate that conversation for me!

It was now 3 am and Sergio and his friends asked where we wanted to go next. My thought…my bed! I made the excuse that I had an early night and finally fell into my bed – with a smile on my face for the remarkable day I’d had – at 3:30 in the morning!

 

Day 6 – Livin’ like a local and a new friend and FEAR

Yesterday I finally felt like I was in a bit of a routine. It was a great day! Another gorgeous day here – back to typical spring weather, thank goodness!

It was my last day of school. Honestly, I was glad. And nervous. I had to take an exam. I tried to remember the last time I took an exam and I think it was when I was getting my Microsoft cert. That was about 10 YEARS AGO! And I kept thinking, “Why the heck do I have to take an exam????” I think it was more for the students who are doing multiple weeks at the school to make sure their placement is spot on. Anyway, it sucked but I guess I passed because they gave me this cheesy certification document.

I decided take a walk down this lovely street I’d passed while on the Buenos Aires Bus. It’s called Avienda Alvear. It’s a street in the Recoleta neighborhood and is the upscale part of Buenos Aires. This is the street where couture boutiques and high-end art galleries and luxury hotels exist. It’s amazing how different this street is compared with the rest of Buenos Aires that I’ve seen. There’s no trash and no graffiti and definitely no homeless. I was finally able to wear my backpack on my back instead of on my chest! And the architecture – oh, so beautiful! I kept looking up with this silly, awe-filled expression on my face. The typical tourist, right? It was absolutely stunning!

After walking I was desperate for a rest and some lunch so I stopped by a little steakhouse with outdoor seating. The problem with being desperate for rest and food is that you’ll put up with a crappy meal. Oh well.

I’d signed up for a “crash course” at Expanish. These are very quick – 2 hours – courses to get students familiar with useful words and phrases for travel. I was running late and didn’t have the time to walk back to school so decided to try the bus system without any help. Like I’ve always said, you learn a lot more when you get lost in a place. And I actually did very well! Got on the correct bus, told the driver where I was going in Spanish and got off at the right stop. Went the right direction to the school and got there right on time. Sounds silly but I felt very accomplished in doing this!

The crash course I’d signed up for was supposed to be about everyday fundamentals; how to ask for what you need in Spanish. Well, it ended up being about shopping in Spanish; the vocabulary relating to clothes and drinks and snacks. Shopping for clothes in BA is actually the last thing on my mind. Oddly enough, right? So I was a little disappointed with the crash course. BUT – I met a new friend! Her name is Emma and she lives in London but grew up in Dublin and has traveled all over the world. She’s in South America for over 2 months – 2 weeks of which she’ll use to learn some Spanish at Expanish. Well, we got on very well and I offered to show her the Subte (the subway or metro) because it would be her first time on it. So off we went. On the Subte as we sweated with the rest of the many, many people there, we chatted and decided to have dinner together. I was sooooo happy about it! I’d get to have a nice dinner with a nice person and speak in good-ole-English! I really needed it at that point.

After a shower and another Subte ride to the barrio where she is staying – Palermo – we met for drinks at La Pharmacia – an Italian restaurant on a busy intersection in a great area of Palermo. We managed to find – accidentally – a place that offered the white wine I’d fallen in love with the previous night – Torrentes. So we shared a bottle and very good conversation there. I swear, looking at and talking to Emma was like looking at and talking to a mirror image of myself. Except she’s better! She’s adventurous and ballsy and open to learning about this crazy, cool, different culture. Like I said, she’s here for over 2 months! After her Spanish class, she’s going to travel. But she has no plans or accommodations. She’s completely doing things exactly as she wants all the while knowing things will work out just the way they’re supposed to. It’s very, very impressive and I’m not afraid to say that I was very, very jealous. We just had the best time! After drinks, we went to a restaurant right next to her apartment that she’d passed by and looked great. Emma wanted steak and I was completely up for that. After almost a week here I’d yet to have a steak. I know, that’s embarrassing…the restaurant and the food were lovely. We both decided we were not up for a club or a bar crawl. BUT – Emma has a friend of a friend in Buenos Aires that’s been trying to get together with her and she’s going to see if he’ll take her and her new American friend out dancing tonight! I’m really hoping this comes together. Not only will I get to spend another evening with a beautiful person but I may get to go dancing with a LOCAL. Yay!!!

Then came the scariest part of my trip – maybe any trip – so far! It was around midnight when I headed back to my apartment. I didn’t realize the Subte would be closed and it would be an hour walk back to my apartment so I decided to get a taxi. Taxis are very easy to get here and I got one immediately. He didn’t speak English but I know enough now to get by and we were off. Our first stop at a traffic light and this man fell asleep! He fell asleep! I had to yell at him to wake him up. Then, while he was driving he fell asleep! Again! We were all over the road, cars were honking everywhere and he’s asleep at the wheel. Well, I’m not afraid of much but I was freaked out – obviously, right? So at the next light I would hop out. Which I tried to do and he said, “no, no, no” and drove off. Thankfully, he just drove over to the curb where he said “Es gratis” (it’s free). Seriously?! Did he really think I’d pay him?!? My response, “Si, es verdad!!!” (yes, it’s true…a.k.a. f*ck yes, it’s free!!). Perhaps I need to learn a few curse words for these types of situations…

Another taxi came along and I got home just fine – a little shook up but just fine. Well, at least it’s a good story…

 

 

Day 5 – Tests, Hot pink buildings and Wine! Wine! Wine!

Well I didn’t end up going to the restaurant on the water. It was just a little over the top for me. I just didn’t get a charming, this-is-historic-and-oh-so-cool vibe from it. But it was very romantic and very beautiful and I haven’t seen that many people on roller blades since the 90s!

I wanted to see downtown Buenos Aires at night so decided to take a walk and find some dinner. It is such a different area at night! So few people – only tourists and everything is lit up like Christmas. Casa Rosado – which directly translates to the pink house – is our version of the White House. It’s the executive mansion and the office of the Argentine president. During the day the house is baby pink – well – more the color of Pepto Bismal. It’s awful. And at night it’s even worse – but it does make a statement. It’s lit up with bright pink lights. Yikes!

I ended up going to the historic bar in BA called Café Tortoni which is a café in the center of BA and has been visited by many renowned people including politicians and international figures. Albert Einstein, Robert Duvall and Hillary Clinton have all visited this café! And now I have as well 🙂 It was a fun café – very touristy which usually isn’t my thing but I did get a nice glass of their Copa Reserva – which is their house wine and Suprema de pollo grille con guarnicion. This is grilled chicken. And guarnicion which is any food combined with olive oil and spices. This is a typical thing to see in BA – vegetables guarnicion or potatoes guarnicion. Now I actually know what it means.

 

After my tourist day I was itching to get to my apartment and a nice soft bed.

Thursday:

Today was one of those days that tests me. For all of the beautiful days in BA, this was the exact opposite! It was cold and dreary and windy and rainy. Just terrible. And then, I’ve begun to realize that I SUCK at Spanish! I am seriously glad that I’m not doing another week at the school because my brain is already inundated with way too much foreign information. It’s a relatively rare thing for me to feel my age but it is so hard for me to learn! I remember in college soaking up all of this information. Now it is so much harder. I’m embarrassed and frustrated. And on top of the crappy weather, I wanted to curl up with my puppy – who is probably curled up with my BFF – and cry. But the positive thing about “traveling Aimee” is that she can get up off her self-pitying ass and realize that she’s able to do just what she wants to do and that she’s blessed! So off to feel better I went – in the rain 🙂

I wanted to go to Caminito to look for some local art. Matias had mentioned this to me on Tuesday and I saw this area during my silly bus tour. Caminito is a traditional alley – located in the La Boca barrio of BA. The buildings in this area of town are painted in many different, bright colors. This was an area that was inhabited by immigrants to BA who painted the outside of their homes with the leftover paint from the shipyard because they couldn’t afford anything else. It is such an eclectic and cool place! Very touristy but worth it. I told my host and my teacher that I was going there and both of them said, “Alone?” Well, of course. Apparently this is the dangerous area of BA. You’re not supposed to walk there to get off the main avenue and PROTECT your bag. Well, anyone that knows me knows that if someone tells me not to go somewhere that’s exactly where I’ll go. And I loved it. And I bought a small piece of art so in case I don’t find anything else I’ll be good. I also got to see some very cheesy tango dancing. Wow – bad…

I had signed up for a wine-tasting class earlier in the day. And after the “I’m old and it’s crappy” day, I was seriously looking forward to it! Anuva wines is dedicated to getting the world to try all of the famous Argentinian wines but from vineyards with limited production – so premium Argentinan wines. And I haven’t so far spent any time learning about the wines – nor drinking them – since I’ve been here.

Well, it was everything I needed and more! I walked in to a sweet little area in the middle of a residential street that was so modern and cool. The tables were perfectly set and the wineglasses placed impeccably and fresh flowers in the middle of the table. It was such a far cry from the “student” life I’ve been living. And I was embarrassed by the jeans and dirty hair I was sporting. But the first thing I saw was a couple from California – Scott and Cynthia – with the biggest, most-welcoming smiles on their faces! They were in BA celebrating their 10th wedding anniversary and were so kind and welcoming and friendly. Again, I felt like the universe had given me what I needed when I needed it. And I never wanted to leave! The tastings where amazing. All Argentinian wines but some I’d never heard of before. Torrentes – which is the white wine of Argentina – was my favorite. But we also tried a Syrah and a Malbec and a Bonarda. This is a red wine that the sommelier promised would be the next Malbec. Oh it was oh so good!!!! But more than the wine and the tapas, it was absolutely…comforting…to be surrounded by kind, sweet, engaging people who speak the same language! We all really had a nice time. From Scott and Cynthia from LA to a couple from Paris and London to a couple from Brazil to co-workers from Argentina – we all got along like old friends. It was wonderful and really changed the way I felt about the day – THANK GOODNESS 🙂

Anuva Wines - Degustação de vinhos em Buenos Aires, Argentina

Upon my request, the sommelier recommended a place to get a good glass of Torrentes. So here I sit – in the Bar du March – drinking a delicious glass of Torrentes. Back soon…

Day 4 in Buenos Aires – Time to act like a tourist

Today was my “act like a tourist day”. Oh! I forgot to start with last night – my date J

Hernon picked me up at the apartment at 10:30 – yes, I did type that correctly. 10:30! Things work a bit differently here, huh? And we were going to dinner that late. And…I wasn’t even tired. Maybe there’s something in the air. Well, since Frank’s Bar wasn’t open, we went to another “hidden” bar/restaurant called Puertauno – which translates to Door 1. It was in the Chino barrio – which is the Chinatown neighborhood of BA and to get in you literally went up to a huge black door. There were no signs advertising the place and I’m fairly sure you had to know a passcode or something to get in as the doorman (aka bouncer) was not real friendly until some rapid-fire Spanish was exchanged between he and Hernan.

Behind the huge simple door was a very hip, cool restaurant. I really should have taken a photo but I thought I might embarrass my date if I did that. And perhaps expose a secret that I shouldn’t have. Instead I’m showing a photo from the internet. It’s probably better than what I’d take anyway. In order to try some more typical food of Argentina, we ordered rabas fritas which is Argentina’s take on calamari. It is fried squid rings served with just lemon. But they tasted completely different from what we get at home. Much saltier – in a good way! And the lemon cut the salt just a little bit. Delicious! For my main course I had Bondiola which is a pork dish in a dark sauce served with sweet potatoes – which are not sweet potatoes but are potatoes that are sweet. A big difference. But the bondiola was a success. Crunchy on top and juicy in the middle. Clearly my culinary writing could improve but you get the idea. I (finally) had some wine and we talked – again – for hours. We talked about everything from the sexiest languages and people to Latin and American movies. It was a great time! I can’t remember the last time I almost got kicked out of a bar because they were closing. Last night I did it again! It was a gorgeous night and Hernan wanted some ice cream so we walked for a bit around the Belgrano barrio searching for someplace still open. But to no avail. I got back to my apartment at 2:30 – very late for this old girl but it was totally worth the 4 hours of sleep!

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Today was another spectacular day in BA. Very warm for this time of year according to my host and more Carolina blue skies. So I wanted to take advantage of the weather and finally get on the silly tourist bus. So after class I boarded the Buenos Aires bus. This was stops at 25 locations around the HUGE city and you can get on and off at your leisure. The school recommended I do this in order to figure out where I wanted to spend more time later. It was fascinating. I was on the bus for a total of 3.5 hours and really got a good overview of the city and where I need to return in order to shop/buy art/see live music. I’m so glad I did it. I saw all of the important monuments and wore a silly headset so got to hear the history behind all of them.

During the tour, we passed by the Puerto Madera – the port of BA. Anyone that has been on my Facebook page has seen a picture of this port at night. It is my cover photo. I’d been told my multiple people that I had to see it. It is a very new and very wealthy barrio in BA. There are skyscrapers right on the river as well as a private university and luxury hotels and condos. It’s stunning but a little boring. It doesn’t have some of the charm of the rest of this city if you ask me. But my teacher recommended a restaurant on the river in the neighborhood so I’m going to give it a shot. It is very safe here and also absolutely beautiful as the lights from the surrounding buildings are reflected in the water.

Day 3 – Spanish is hard! People are awesome!

I’m supposed to be going my homework but in the spirit of telling a story – and remembering every cool thing that happened today – I’m writing this blog post instead.

Oh! First thing’s first… for anyone thinking of coming to Buenos Aires it’s worth knowing one thing. I paid 60 pesos for 2 VERY SMALL cups of coffee. That is about 7 dollars. A few hours later, I paid 23 pesos for a BOTTLE OF WINE. That is about $2.70. Clearly some of the Argentinian priorities are spot on!

Moving on…today was fantastic! It was a beautiful day in Buenos Aires – about 75 degrees and Carolina blue skies. Class was good but I’m not thrilled with how it’s taught. Like the class I took in Charlotte, it is very focused on rules and conjugation and the exact way to say and write things. Maybe it’s my age but I’m having a very hard time remembering all of these rules! And I get upset with myself when I don’t get something exactly right. And then when I’m out in the real world in Argentina I find myself hesitating to use the Spanish that I know for fear that I won’t say something correctly. I need to stop that! For me, it’s truly more important to communicate than to be perfect and I need to remember that.

Along the same vein, after class – since the tourist bus that I wanted to get on was sold out – I asked my teacher for a recommendation for a typical Argentinian restaurant – but not a steak house. Although it was about a 4-mile walk away, it was worth it! It was in the Recoleta neighborhood and no one in the restaurant spoke any English and the menu was entirely in Spanish. So I basically pointed at something and ordered that. I ordered una parrilla – which is meat cooked on a grill on top of greens. I got salmon (the only thing I recognized) and it was so good. The greens are not served with any dressing. You’re supposed to use olive oil and a lot of it. I took my time eating and was doing my homework at the table when the men next to me asked in Spanish if I was from America. So began a wonderful afternoon! I met Matias and his friend. Matias spoke very good English and we spoke a little Spanglish together while he and his friend told me all of the great places to see in BA as well as where to get some local art. I asked about local live music and instead of telling me where to go, Matias asked if I wanted him to show me. Well, why not? I had a few hours to kill before my tango class. So his friend went back to work and Matias and I went for a very long walk around part of BA talking the whole time.

Along the walk, Matias told me of a local writer named Cortazar. And one of the cafes with live music – called Clasica y Moderna Libreria – also has a library (bookstore) inside of it. This café has been around for 75 years and hosted some amazing musicians. It was such a great place. A café in front – with a grand piano and a bar – and a bookstore in back. Since we had been talking about Cortazar, he bought me one of his books and made me promise to continue my Spanish until I could read it. Seriously, the people I’ve met here – although few – have been so incredible!

Matias and I walked for hours around the city – him pointing out buildings and architecture and theaters and also telling me about life in Argentina. He called life in Argentina right now sad and depressing – again because of the terrible economy. Every single Argentinian that I’ve talked to has said the same thing. It’s a terrible situation here and no one knows how to get out of it. It’s fascinating to hear about but sad at the same time.

Matias is only in town for one night for work and he asked me to go listen to some music with him and his friend but…I have a date. I would have enjoyed that very much. What a very, very nice man. Adrienne, he said Thailand changed his life. That is where the found meditation and it centered him and made him who he is today. Awesome…just awesome.

Compared to the rest of my day, the tango class was BORING. No, I can’t say that. I do love to dance. But it was a bunch of very young kids doing tango for the very first time so we didn’t really dance. It was sort of like a high-school dance. Everyone switching partners, stepping on feat and saying “Lo siento” (“I’m sorry”). It is a beautiful dance to watch but I didn’t get a chance to appreciate it there.

It’s now 21:30 (9:30) and I have a date in an hour. I’m very excited! We’re going to Frank’s Bar – a secret bar in a neighborhood near my apartment. I’m very interested in how these bars work. I think they are a fad in BA and that you need some sort of passcode to get in. We’ll see how it goes – if nothing else, it will be very interesting. As I write this, however, I’m reading online that it’s closed tonight. So…what will we do? Who knows and I don’t care!

Check back tomorrow and I’ll let you know. Chow!

 

Expanish and La Recoleta Cemetery

Hola amigos! Today was my first day of class. I was up way too early to take the Subte – the underground in Buenos Aires – to my 8 am Spanish test. One of our teachers said it was also called an almost-free sauna. The temperature outside was a nice 60 degress or so but in the Subte it was more like 85. And forget about personal space – I got closer to men than I’ve gotten in quite a while! But I’ll get used to it.

Upon arriving at the school – along with about 12 other students – I took my placement exam and had to prove my knowledge by introducing myself to one of the staff. Apparently I did ok because I’m in A-2 instead of A-1. This just means that I have enough Spanish that I got to skip the first week of classes. So I’m starting a little bit ahead. My class is being taught by Christine – who seems to have a very smart-ass sense of humor. Clearly, I like her very much! There are only 2 other students in the class – a girl from France and an English bloke who is taking a year off school (he’s 18!) to travel the world. And remember when I thought that I’d be the oldest one at the school? Well, I’m AT LEAST 16 years older than anyone else! HA! That’s ok, I just have that much more life experience 🙂 But everyone is very nice. Most of them are staying in Buenos Aires for multiple months to learn Spanish. Me = old and jealous!

We finished with class at 1 and went to a brief orientation of the city center where the school is located. Expanish is in the micro-center of Buenos Aires – surrounded by banks and high-end shops and offices. Our guide showed us where to get pizza rica (delicious pizza) as well as un café (coffee). Then we had a “safety” talk. There were some stories there! Needless to say, keep an eye on your belongings at all times and don’t travel to certain neighborhoods within the city. I have learned from multiple locals about how corrupt the Argentinian government is. Apparently there are hours where – in certain neighborhoods – the police “disappear”. They also make an effort to scare the tourists. But no big deal, if you get in trouble, you can just buy them off. iPhones seem to be the preferred form of payment.

With the afternoon to myself, I took a bus to La Recoleta Cemetery. In order to navigate my way to my destination, I used what I’ve learned in the 2 days since I arrived – I pointed to my map and batted my eyelashes at the driver! This has worked for me 2 for 2 times! See? I do learn quickly.

Eva Peron’s tomb.

La Recoleta Cemetery is one of the world’s most famous cemeteries. It is where the important people of Argentina are buried – including Evita – Eva Peron. It is creepy! But also beautiful. There are graves and mausoleums from the 18th century to as late as today. In fact, there was a local family there just come from a funeral. Sad – but also lovely.

Now I sit at Distal Café in the barrio of Recoleta. I’ll have another nice dinner with my host family tonight. Last night was the only night I was “allowed” to speak English to my host’s 2 sons. Tonight I have to rely on my small amount of Spanish. The cool part, however, is that we’ll figure it out. And have some laughs in the meantime.

Tomorrow I’m going to behave like a real tourist and get on a double-decker bus of the city. This city is so huge that I figure it will be a nice was to get an overview of everything. Then I’m going to take a tango class – that ought to be hilarious. Then, if all goes according to plan, a date!

Buenos noches!

Day 1 in Buenos Aires – Confusion and Rain

After a long but uneventful flight, I arrived to a nasty, nasty Sunday in Buenos Aires. So much for the city welcoming me with sunny skies and open arms. But just as in any locale, there are always icky days.

Well right out of the gate, almost literally, I’m a dumb American. The customs officer asked me my address in Buenos Aires and I pulled my meticulously printed itinerary out of my bag to realize that the only thing I didn’t print was the address of the place I was to stay here. Really, Aim? Following a little bit of panic on my part, they let me into the country with me hoping the people I was to meet would know where the heck to take me. Well, they did know where to take me but I didn’t even know the name of the woman who was hosting me – nor her number nor her address. We made it to the apartment and she wasn’t answering her doorbell. Well, luckily this dumb American also has a big smile and the voice of a small child begging for a treat. My driver nicely called my host and I finally got in. I’m now soaked, scared and a bit confused but I do have shelter. And my host – Virginia – is great! She’s a single mom in her 40s and speaks about as much English as I do Spanish. But crazily, we had about an hour-long conversion and really understood what the other was “saying”. I think we’re going to get along great.

Since it was pouring, my plans for the outdoor market changed. Virginia recommended I go to a nearby barrio (neighborhood) called Palermo – by bus to shop and eat and walk around – yes, in the rain. It took us – ok, me – about 20 minutes to figure out how to get there and I still got lost. But again, “Mi Espanola es mal” worked and along with pointing, I got to my destination, drenched but hopeful. This barrio is known for it’s shops and restaurants and tourists. I was in desperate need of una copa de vino blanco and came upon a small café that was almost full and seemed to have a good bit of personality – called Le Pain Quotidien. They also had a community table – which is nice for a solo traveler like me. I can sit surrounded by others so that I can people watch and listen to the language and I don’t have to take up an entire table. And they had WiFi! So there I sat with my glass of wine and in comes 3 people who happen to sit next to me at the end of the community table. The man – very cute 27-year-old Hernan, and I struck up a conversation. Seriously, these are the moments where I realize that I’m LUCKY! The kindness and friendliness was such a relief after the fear of the morning. And perhaps it goes to show me that the universe gives you what you need right when you need it.

Anyway, I ended up talking to Herman and his parents for a good two hours. He told me about some good things to do and see while I was here and his parents and I compared puppy photos – Max, they think you’re “funny looking”. I learned a little bit about their culture and they learned a little bit about mine and it was fantastic. Carmen and Giuseppe even bought me my lunch – so sweet and kind! And Hernan and I have a date scheduled later in the week. He’s going to take me to see some live jazz – somewhere that only the locals know about. Yay! And Giuseppe had Hernan give me his number so that I have it in case of emergency. Mom – please don’t worry – they totally treated me like I could be their daughter. It gave me a glimpse into the kinds of people I may meet here and I’m thrilled 🙂

I’m about to venture back out into the rain to take a very very much needed NAP. I have to be at the school bright and early tomorrow and feel like I could sleep for a week right now! A shower couldn’t hurt either 🙂

I’ll write again soon. Here’s to making TONS more memories just as good as this one!

The musings of a traveler before a big, solo, foreign trip

Finally! It’s been 10 months since I’ve had a big adventure so I’m ready. Tomorrow I leave on what I know will be another amazing experience. I’m off to Argentina and Chile. In Argentina I’ll be doing a Spanish immersion program at Expanish in Buenos Aires and staying with a host family. Hopefully I’ll leave those classes with the ability to have a decent conversation with the locals. Then I’m off to Chile to trek Patagonia at Ecocamp Patagonia.

As I get ready to take off, some similar thoughts go through my mind. Check out the musings of this adventure traveling girl! And check back over the next few weeks – I plan to blog on a daily basis.

  1. Get absolutely everything out of every single moment that you can. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime trip and you’ve worked hard and saved for it. Take advantage of every opportunity to learn and grow – and have a freakin’ blast!
  2. Say “I love you and I’ll miss you” to the people (and dog) you love. And bring pictures of them with you. When you’re lonely and scared – and you will be – look at those pictures.
  3. You can be whoever you want to be – even Candi with a heart over the “i”. But be true to yourself. Unless you’re in danger – then be a bitch and get the hell outta there!
  4. Skype your mother. No matter how many crazy trips you take, she’ll still worry.
  5. Appreciate the differences in people. What makes them different makes them fascinating. Listen to them, watch them, learn from them and be KIND to them.
  6. Take a lot of pictures but don’t live your vacation through a camera lens. Experience it! Remember it! And then WRITE IT DOWN! We all know that after 40, even the most amazing moments in our lives get lost. Have something concrete to bring back all of the happy memories.
  7. Even though modern technology allows for us to be connected all of the time, use the opportunity to disconnect and TRY, TRY, TRY to live in the moment. Remember it’s a moment that most others will never have the balls to put themselves in.
  8. If you think something nice about someone – even a stranger – say it. Try to say it in their native language but if you can’t, say it anyway. Your sincerity and smile will shine through.
  9. Clean the house before you leave. It’s bad enough that you don’t want to come home; coming home to a dirty house makes it that much worse.
  10. Have your favorite meal the day before you go. You’ll miss it! I’ll be at Al Mike’s tonight if anyone wants to join me.

Off I go! Salud!