All posts by Aimee Couturier

Belgium 2019

Bruges > Ghent > Antwerp

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This morning John went along with my wish to get up early and see Bruges while everyone else sleeps…what a different city! Even at only 9 o’clock in the morning, the city sleeps! None of the shops are open, no one is queuing for the canal tour, you are not in fear of being hit by a bike 🙂 Seriously, it is lovely. And you can take all of the pictures you want – not a soul will be in them! So I played amateur photographer and tried to get some worthy shots of this adorable place. We walked along the cobblestones, over the bridges, by the lakes, past the closed up storefronts – all the while taking photos and looking for my next great piece of art (NOT!). It was a lovely morning…

After a bit more shopping – a hipster, cool jacket for John and a little ditty for me too, we headed to our next destination, Ghent.

I had really been looking forward to seeing Ghent. It’s a college town, or so I read, so I was expecting another small town with a lazy, hopeful vibe to it. I’m not going to lie – that was not my first impression as we left the train station. Regardless, we did have a list of just a few things to do in Ghent. So off we went to the Gravensteen castle.

Gravensteen is literally translated as “Castle of the Counts” because Philip of Alsace, one of the counts of Flanders, erected the castle in 1180. This tour also came with an audio guide and it was so completely silly that both John and me really enjoyed it. It is narrated by a local comedian named Wouter Deprez. He takes you on a guided tour through the castle and details the stories of the castle using legends and anecdotes. I mean, if you’re going to hear about the torture chambers and hear the stories of death you may need a little comic relief! It is something I really recommend as you’ll either have a smile on your face or you’ll be rolling your eyes for almost an hour!

It was after noon and we needed food and, of course, more Belgian beer! After some help from the tourist office we landed at Vosken, a restaurant near St. Bavo’s Cathedral (more later). This time, with the help of the waitress who was not a beer drinker (more blasphemy!) we settled on Cornet. It was sooooo good! Who knew right? And John went for the traditional Belgian dish called waterzooi. Waterzooi is a total comfort food! It is a stew chunks of leek, carrot, onion, potatoes and chicken served piping hot with a basket of warm bread and butter so you can sop up all the goodness! Needless to say, John out ordered me. But I just cannot pass up a Croque Monsieur when I see one…

Of course our next stop was St. Bavo’s Cathedral. While this cathedral, as cathedrals go, is not so impressive, it does house a magnificent piece of art – “The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb” by the Van Eyck brothers. It also had an audio tour that described the amazing triptych and it’s 18 panels depicting scenes from the Bible.

Our next stop was to the waterfront of Ghent which I had seen pictures of and read so much about. It is called Graslei and is also a must-see. Right on the river and with tour boats all around, it is surrounded by buildings that literally look like gingerbread houses. The students from the universities come to sit along the banks of the river and drink and gossip. Tons of cafes are found here too. For John, we walked arm in arm and admired the feast for our eyes.

It was finally time to head to Antwerp. I was so excited to visit this city especially because I’d booked an Airbnb so John and I would have our own little place.

First impressions are huge and every visitor to the Antwerp Central train station will have an amazing first impression of this city! It is absolutely stunning! It is modern, well-kept, humongous and historic all at the same time. It is a must see in my opinion even if you don’t arrive to the city by train. As you leave the station you will be dumbfounded by the enormous dome above the waiting room hall. In fact in the magazine Newsweek in 2009, this station was voted as the world’s fourth greatest train station.

First impressions can be completely wrong, huh? The airbnb was ….in a word….a dump. It was actually clean but still a dump. It was actually in a decent area but still a dump. It just lacked all charm and usability. And I had done research on this! And this place had gotten hundreds of 5-star reviews! Seriously, how does a traveler handle these sorts of things…it just makes no sense to me. But we’d deal with it…

Hungry, we headed out to one of our Airbnb host’s recommendations (and now I think why did I do that?). A bar called Bar Paniek – in our neighborhood down by the docks. Here is John’s description of the place – a trendy shithole! Looking for the positive…the beers were cheap and it was warm given a large fire pit in the middle of the shithole. I ordered a Seef beer and john a Graff. Mine was better 🙂

Well, we were 0 for 2 in Antwerp. No where to go but up right? Thankfully we stumbled on a restaurant on our way back called Roest. It looked cozy and warm and busy and oh-so-inviting at this point! And we were greeted by friendly staff who served us a lovely, huge, much needed burger and WINE. We were both done with beer at this point.

On our way back we decided to check out the red light district which was in our neighborhood – of course, right?!?!?! A red light district is always something to see – women, no men in this one – of all shapes, sizes, colors, ages…one can have their pick.

I just have one final thing to say – if anyone is reading this that is considering putting their place on Airbnb, please no false advertising! And make sure your bedding is not yellowing with age and your pillows were purchased in this decade. Jeez!

Belgium 2019

Bread, chocolate, beer…

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After a hearty breakfast at Con Ampare B&B – everyone needs a breakfast of a small loaf of bread with butter and jam right? – we headed out to check out Bruges.

Our first stop was Sint-Janshospitaal. The hospital was constructed during the mid 12th century! It served as a place where sick pilgrims and travelers could go to be cared for by nuns and monks. This medieval building served as a hospital until 1977 – over 800 years! The architecture in this place is amazing! You are given a free audio tour which explains artwork in the hospital as well as instruments used by doctors to heal the sick and perform bloodletting rituals. Bloodletting is the withdrawal of blood from a patient to prevent or cure illness and disease. During the Middle Ages some believed that blood and other bodily fluids were “humours” that had to remain in proper balance to maintain health. Yeah…creepy.

This place was fascinating. John said he got a spiritual vibe being there. It was incredible to be in such an old amazing building and try to picture what went on inside – including caring for patients with the plague.

Another thing John really wanted to do was see the relic of the blood of Jesus Christ. But on our way we got distracted – by tourists and canals and chocolate shops and BEER! Being the savvy travels we are we managed to get in the shortest queue for a boat trip along the lovely canals of Bruges. This is such a cool, alternative way to see the city that I recommend it for everyone. Although our driver did provide a little bit of information about the buildings we passed, it was really more about admiring the scenery from a different perspective. It’s a lovely way to see the city and for just $8 euro per person, totally worth it!

The Basilica of the Holy Blood was closed for lunch (huh?) and it was really time for us to try a Belgian beer so we headed to our host’s favorite local pub to try “angel pee-pee”. The pub is called De Garre and it’s accessed via a “hidden” street between the Burg and the Belfry tower. We had to turn around once because we missed it the first time! But it is a cozy little pub and of course we ordered the house beer – Tripel van De Garre. It is served with fanfare in a huge brandy-like glass with a ton of head (hehe) and a small bowl of cheese. The bar will also only serve you two of these beers as they have 11% alcohol! Perhaps needless to say, I found it to be less than angel pee-pee. John, however, loved it. But the combo of cheese and beer was really nice and the coziness of the bar was totally worth it. And I swear after only a few sips of this beer I was a little buzzed!

Finally we were off to the Basilica of the Holy Blood. This is interesting…every day this relic is brought out and put on display so that a wave of tourists and religious folks can come to admire it and also give the basilica money. The relic is an ornate vial filled with a bit of fabric that is said to hold the blood of Jesus Christ. You literally walk to the alter (and no pictures!) one-by-one (or with your spouse/partner) to place your hands on the glass box that houses the relic and say a prayer. You are given some information and then go on your marry way. I’m not going to lie – it was moving – but experts are still trying to prove the authenticity of the relic itself.

All right – it had been almost 24 hours and we hadn’t dipped into one of the scores of chocolate shops in Bruges! I know…ridiculous! It was time…literally in the city of Bruges I think there is a chocolate shop (or three) every single block! It’s actually overwhelming – in a good way – because how do you choose? Well, we’d asked Filip and Annemieke so we at least had some direction. We headed to Depla Chocolatier in the center of Bruges. This particular chocolate shop has been in business since 1968. The chocolates are laid out and named for the customer to choose. Since we don’t read Flemish it was a bit confusing because everything looked delicious! We ended up choosing a little box of 5 different chocolates. Well, we didn’t even get a city block before they were all gone! They ranged from butterscotch filling to marshmallow to a ganache. And this chocolate is definitely different from the states – rich and thick and oh so good!

We had sustenance and we’d literally seen all of the things on our list so we wandered – just wandered through this gorgeous little town. All of the medieval buildings are brick and well-kept and none is over 3 stories tall. The canals run through the center of town and seem to always be filled with tourists in boats. The banks of the canals are lush and green with areas blooming with flowers (I can’t imagine how gorgeous spring is here!). We headed toward the Lake of Love and Lovers Bridge.

The Lake of Love is in the middle of Minnewater Park and is named for a legend of a pretty girl named Minna who was in love with a man who her father didn’t approve of – Stromberg. Her father arranged for her to marry another man and she ran away. When Stromberg found her, she died in his arms of exhaustion. The lake was named after Minna. It is also said if you walk over the bridge and kiss your loved one, it will be eternal love. So sweet…and the lake is lovely – there are swans all over the place and you can sit and hear the clip-clop of horses as they transport lovers around the park.

There is always shopping to do in Bruges so of course we had to get a bit of that in. But on the way we happened upon the Begijnhof (Beguinage). This area was once the home of beguines, emancipated lay woman who lead lives without men. They still adhere to a strict code of silence. It was so peaceful and beautiful in there.

And then back to our B&B for a much needed nap!

Yes we were in Bruges but yes John and I love wine. We’d heard about a great wine bar from both our B&B and from our dinner hosts – a place called, appropriately, Blend. Just a couple short blocks from our hotel, it was a sweet, trendy spot with a pretty decent wine list! Considering we were in THE country of beer! In fact, when we expressed our delight at finding a wine bar in Bruges, he stated, “yeah, we hate beer here”! Blasphemy!

We had a couple of yummy wines and a gorgeous charcuterie board. We also had the kind of conversation that makes a vacation. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, this is why I travel. To learn, to grow, to relax and fall in love all over again!

Belgium 2019

Welcome to Belgium

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It was a pretty easy trip to Belgium and, after landing in Brussels, we wasted no time. Stored the bags in a locker and took to the streets!

We never really intended to spend any time in Brussels as there were so many other places to see. I’d always read that it was just another big city – yes, the center of the EU – but still just another big city. But since we couldn’t check into our B&B in Bruges until early afternoon, why not?

The only thing I really wanted to see was the Grand Place which is the central square in Brussels and known as one of the most beautiful places in the world. It is, of course, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it dates back to the 15th century. Not long after it’s construction it was bombarded by the French but the Belgians rebuilt and what you see now is a hodgepodge of architecture that will take your breath away.

All you can do in this square is turn in a circle and look all around. The hodgepodge of design styles is fascinating in and of itself but the buildings are awe-inspiring. A beautiful tower sits in the middle of all of it surrounded by bits of gold everywhere. And atop the tower is a gilded statue of the archangel Michael, the patron saint of Brussels, with a slayed dragon at his feet.

As we were gawking at the buildings, we happened to notice that the free tours were starting soon. Why not, we thought? So we joined.

Our guide was a sweet writer named Charlotte and she regaled us with tales (some of them literal tales – as apparently Belgians like to spin them!) of the history of the city.

We really just walked in a big circle and got an overview of some of the famous buildings and statues right around Grand Place. One of the most famous statues is the Mannekin Pis (pronounced mannequin piss – yes, that is not a typo). Mannekin Pis is a 2-foot tall statue of a little boy peeing. He is the famous emblem of this Belgian city. Apparently this little statue as over 1000 outfits. He is dressed up regularly for certain events and a schedule of his attire is posted daily.

As anyone who know me knows…I am not a huge fan of beer. And yet here we are in a country know for beer. Of course I was going to try some but I didn’t know where to start. During the tour we stopped to have a beer or coffee or hot chocolate and I asked the guide’s advice. She set me up with a sample of Mort Subite Kriek – which is a cherry flavored beer. Mort Subite literally means “sudden death”. What could go wrong?!?? Well, it was lovely and something I could get used to!

John, on the flip side, ordered his first hot chocolate – another treat Belgium is known for. He ordered a hot milk filled with malted milk balls – OK! – but traditionally, to make a hot chocolate a bar of Belgian chocolate is broken up and put into a large mug. Then hot milk is poured over the top of it. Delicious!

We decided it was finally time to get to our first official stop in Belgium – Bruges. Bruges – the capital of the Flanders region – is known as the Venice of the North because it is linked by canals – much like Venice, Italy. It is a medieval city that dates back to the 15th century. It is a city also known for it’s cobblestone streets and charming squares surrounded by gingerbread-like houses. And of course, the Lake of Love – one of the most romantic spots in Europe.

We quickly made our way to our home for two days – the B&B Con Ampere. The hotel was just a short walk from the VERY busy Market Square but also in a nice quiet part of Bruges.

We were greeted right away by a family from Germany who were also waiting to get in and had spent years coming to visit Dick and Tineke – the owners of the B&B. Then, along comes Dick (yes, I do love typing that!). Dick greeted us at the door and immediately showed us to our room (the Green Room). Then, he lead us up a set of very, very steeps stairs to a small dining area where he, John and I spent the next 40 minutes learning about the great parts of the city.

Dick is a former boxer and a father of two who lives on the property with his lovely wife Tineke who he refers to as his “10”. He gave us our first local beer – Jupiter – which he also referred to as “breakfast beer” because of the low amount of alcohol in it – a mere 5.5%.

And more importantly, he pulled out a map of Bruges and marked it up with all sorts of things to see and do. He marked wine bars (YAY!) and pubs – one of which dates from the 15th century – and restaurants ranging from Italian to small plates. He also told us about his favorite local pub – called De Garre – on a hidden side street with the same name. He said drinking their house beer was like drinking “angel pee-pee”. Again, no typo…

What a wonderful way to start our trip to Bruges. And what did we do next? Of course head to one of his recommendations – Vlissinghe – which was established in 1515 and it is alleged that the famous painter Rubens paid for his beer with paintings.

Our final adventure of the day was dinner with a local couple. This would be the first time I’d done something like this but I found it livelocal.com. For a fee you can have a meal with a local couple in their home. I figured, why not? and John was in so I booked it ages ago. We chose the first night to do this so we could pick the brains of the couple too – in order to determine the best use of our time in Belgium. Well, the visit exceeded all expectations!

Filip and Annemieke’s house is across another large square from the center of Bruges. Once you cross this square it feels like you are in another city. It is quiet and sleepy but still so quaint.

They welcomed us into their place – a 3-story townhouse-like home – at the end of a small cobblestone street. It was awkward at first of course. We were invited into their living room and served drinks by the fireplace which was lit by dozens of tea lights. There we talked about what Filip and Annemieke do for a living – a firefighter and a marketer for the city of Bruges – and about why they love living here.

Then we headed to their dining room for a traditional dinner of pumpkin soup and Flemish stew which is a beef based stew cooked for hours in beer of course. It was absolutely delicious! Annemieke is studying wine in order to take the course to be a sommelier so, not only did we discuss wine at length, but we were served lovely wine with dinner. One of which was a Belgian Chardonnay. I’d read that there were a couple of white wines that are produced in Belgium – one is a Chardonnay and one is a sparkling white. Well, the Chardonnay was very nice I’m happy to write (I was afraid I’d be drinking beer all week)! And then we were served a French Burgundy that John loved.

We had great food and great wine but even more importantly, the conversation was amazing. We discussed family and work and Belgium and LGBTQ and politics and food. It was such a nice evening and something I recommend to anyone reading this! We really got a glimpse into their lives and got to see their very real passion for this country and especially for Bruges. We also got a little insight into the fact that not all is perfect in their beautiful little city and frankly, corruption is everywhere…

What a wonderful first day in this place! MORE TO COME!

Europe, Lisbon, Portugal, Travel

Mastering the Miroduoro

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We headed back to Lisbon on a very early train to take advantage of our last day in Portugal. No rest for the weary, once we arrived we quickly headed out again. There were two more sights that I really wanted to take in before leaving – the Tower of Belem and Mosteiro dos Jeronimos – the Jeronimos Monistary.

The Belem district of west of Lisbon by about 5 miles. Since we needed to keep our track record of 10+ miles a day, we decided to hoof it there. On the way we made a quick detour to the “must-eat” Timeout market in Cais do Sodre.

The Timeout market – yes, named after the magazine – boasts stall after stall of traditional and not so traditional Portuguese food and drinks. There are 35 food and drink stalls. You can take your pick from typical bacalhau (cod), pasteis de nata, sardines or you can feast on delights from other countries – including pizza and a good old fashioned burger.

It was a madhouse in there! It was lunchtime so it makes sense but it was just packed. I am, however, glad we went. We stumbled upon Oh Prego da Peixaria – a stall that sells one of Portugal’s national sandwichies. A prego is a beef sandwich that can be served in bread (with mustard or hot sauce) or in a platte (with fries, rice and fried egg). We ordered Prego Motard – “A Kind of Burger”. It was a burger covered with chorizo and fried egg and it was oh so good. The place was cool but very, very touristy.

Time Out Market Lisbon
Time Out Market Lisbon

Again taking the road less traveled we began our trip to Belem – passing by the docks and the trains where almost no people ventured. Often we thought we were lost but as usual we found our way and ended up fighting the wind along the Tejo estuary between the unbelievable Padrão dos Descobrimentos monument and the Torre de Belem.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos monument
Padrão dos Descobrimentos monument

The Padrão dos Descobrimentos – the Monument to the Discoveries – is a massive sculpture made of limesone brought from neighboring Sintra that sits directly on the river. The sculpture depicts the front of a ship used in early Portuguese exploration with a figure of Henry the Navigator at the head. On either side are 16 figures (33 total) representing figures from the Age of Discovery. The sculpture is breathtaking – especially against the deep blue sky and deep green Tagus river.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos monument

You can see the Torre de Belem come into view as you stroll away from the monument. Another magnificent site as it beckons you down the river. The tower was built in the 16th century as both a fortress and a port from where Portuguese explorers departed. It is now classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Torre de Belem
Torre de Belem
Jeronimos Monastery
Jeronimos Monastery

Jeronimos Monastery is across the street from the Tower of Belem. I’d wanted to go into the monastery but was just too tired at that point. The early morning, the distance we’d walked and the relentless wind from the Tagus made us both want to hop on some public transport for a quick trip back to our apartment and a nap. But you can’t miss this monastery if you’re anywhere in Belem. It’s Gothic facade is absolutely awesome. It is also been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And pictures do not do it justice – it’s something you have to see to believe.

It was our last night in Lisbon 🙁 And we’d learned a lot. All we wanted was a last beautiful sunset, some gorgeous food and SOME TAWNY PORT!

We finally mastered the Miroduoro! This time we were headed way, way, way up to the highest hilltop in Lisbon – to Miradouro da Nossa Senhora do Monte.

Ok, this is the way to do a Miroduoro:

First, pack your bag with a wine bottle opener and two glasses – something bigger than demi-tasse espresso cups!

Second, stop at a wine bar on the way and pick up a huge bottle of 10-year-old tawny port. We’d passed this wine bar so many times during our visit. Cleverly, it’s called Cheap Wine Bar & Shop (clearly it struck a cord!) This time we finally went in where we chatted with the bar manager – Vera – who gave us tastes of different aged tawnys. She was super helpful and kind.

Happily buying a Tawny Port at Cheap Wine Bar & Shop

Third, stop at a mini mercado (mini market) for a delicious mix of prosciutto ham, goat cheese, fresh fruit and chocolate.

Fourth, haul your loot to the highest hilltop in the city and settle in for a lovely picnic as you wait for nature to smile down on you.

Let me just say, we had the best picnic in the park that night! I mean, meat and cheese and port – YES! The miroduoro wasn’t even crowded. And the sunset was one of the best we’d seen. There were wispy clouds in the sky to provide that additional touch of ethereal color. Unforgettable!

Miradouro da Nossa Senhora
Locks of Love
Stunning Colors
I’m a Port kind of girl
More Stunning Colors
Miroduoro Selfie
Gorgeous Sunset at Miradouro da Nossa Senhora

We were on a bit of a high, as it was our last night in Portugal and we still had some port left in our bottle so decided to go back to Vera and Cheap Wine Bar & Shop. She welcomed us back with open arms. Even brought us a free appetizer of pizza and olives. And we got to have a nice chat with a lovely woman who took the time to share part of her story with us. When we finally left, I got the traditional double-cheek kiss from Vera! It made me feel like a million bucks!

It was the perfect end to an incredible trip. The experiences, the memories, the conversations – these are what will keep me going during the stressful and complicated days of our so-called normal life. This – THIS – this is why I love to travel.

Adventure, Europe, Portugal 2019, Travel

Serendipitous in Porto

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Ever have one of those days where things just continue to work out? Today was one of those days.

John and I really wanted to check out Livraria Lello which is simply a bookstore in Porto. Not so simply it has been said that this bookstore is the 3rd most beautiful in the world. It has also been said that J.K. Rowling’s inspiration to write Harry Potter happened here. In fact the staircase in the store is quite similar to the one in Hogwarts.

Apparently this is a big draw for tourists as I read that people wait hours to get in. Instead John purchased our tickets online and we were in the store within 20 minutes of opening. Serendipity #1.

It really is a gorgeous store! Books in all languages line the deep brown wood walls. There is a massive stained glass ceiling and the red wooden winding staircase dominates the space. There is a small room even devoted to all of those Harry Potter fans.

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Next on the agenda was the famous Clérigos Church of Porto. And of course it’s tower – Torre dos Clerigos. Wherever you are in Porto you cannot miss the most visited monument in the city. The tower is rich in history but the real reason we were there was to make the climb to the top as apparently from there you get the best 360 degree views of the city. To get to the top one must climb 240 steps. If it sounds daunting it’s really not. The biggest trouble is that the stairs are so narrow that sometimes only one person can pass at a time. It’s not a place for someone who is claustrophobic. The climb is worth it! The day was brilliant and the views from the top did not disappoint. You really can see the entire city, as well as Gaia in the distance, from this monument. Serendipity #2

It was such a stunning day that of course we went to the riverfront for lunch – this time sitting on top of the pedestrian area and right against the wall. The view from there was not too shabby either! We were at Ribeiras Restaurante where we fought a little with the seagulls that were after our lunch (we won!) but it was a nice relaxing time. Serendipity #3

Finally! Back over the Luís I Bridge to Gaia for our port wine tasting. Our Airbnb host had recommended Taylor’s Port and wine cellar. We also liked it as it seemed to be off the beaten path so less likely to be super crowded. What a cool experience! You get an audio tour of the cellar plus a port tasting for 15 Euros each. The tour is very interesting and informative and you wind your way through the cellar out to a peaceful and lovely garden where you are seated to try their port. We were ready!

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The tasting included a white port and a ruby port. First, before coming to Portugal I wasn’t even aware there was a white port! But I thought, with my passion for white wine, that I’d prefer white port.

My impression of port…wait for it…absolutely amazing! I never thought I’d like this stuff! And…I preferred the red. Now things were getting a little crazy 🙂 We really enjoyed the time in the garden appreciating the port, and the beauty of the entire place. Again, more on port later… Serendipity #4

It was time for another sunset. This time we’d planned even better. We’d brought wine and demi-tasse cups to drink it from. And on the way to the Miradouro we stopped for a takeaway falafel sandwich. Yes, falafel in Porto. We were prepared but – all of the sudden there was just no sun. We’d been blessed with 3 amazing sunsets so far so we couldn’t complain too much.

We were anxious to try a port we hadn’t tasted at the cellar – tawny. Tawny ports are usually made from red grapes aged in wood barrels. They age to a golden brown color and are described as having a nutty flavor. So we wandered around Praca de Liberdade – which is where we got so lost the previous night – in search of a place to try this traditional port. We thought maybe a hotel bar would be pretentious enough to work! But the hotel bar was closed. Instead the helpful concierge directed us to Cafe Guarany which had also been recommended by our host. What a sweet little place! Actually not so little. And they had live music in the form of a pianist which made it more perfect for our needs. We thought, “What the hell”, let’s just order a 20-year old glass of port! When in Porto right?!?! The consensus? Even yummier than the white or ruby! Tawny port does have a rich nutty taste – not sweet or syrupy. It was honestly wonderful! We sat, drank our port and enjoyed ourselves immensely! Serendipity #5

Like I said earlier this was a day where things just worked out as they should. It was a wonderful, eye-opening, yet relaxing day in a beautiful town!

Adventure, Europe, Portugal 2019

Porto may be my motherland

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After a brief stop at the famous Fiera da Ladra flea market in Alfama, we got on a train to Porto, Portugal which is 310 km – or less than 200 miles – north of Lisbon and is famous for it’s Port wine. When we first booked the trip our plan was to stay in Lisbon for the entire time. But so many people highly recommended that we spend some time in Porto. And now I can see why!

We arrived via train at the famous Sao Bento train station. This train station is on many must-see lists because of it’s interior lobby designed with traditional Portuguese tiles. It is truly lovely – maybe that’s not the right word for it as it’s packed with tourists and locals alike. It is more awe-inspiring.

Walking out of the train station we were again greeted by brilliant blue skies and so many colors. It really is a feast for your senses. John’s comment was “This place has a great vibe”. Mine was more about this place being my motherland! Because everywhere you looked was wine! And Port of course. Much more to come on Port… But wine menus, wine stories, wine cellars, wine tastings. Oh, I’ve come home 🙂

Another thing we saw everywhere we looked was teenagers wearing clothes from Harry Potter. Literally they are all over the streets of Porto! We just thought these were kids come to honor the series – the idea of which was born in Porto. More on the students later.

We headed down the hill toward to famous Cais de Ribeira all the while gawking at the architecture and the colors like silly tourists!

We had just a small amount of time before meeting our host so stopped into the Church of Sao Francisco. Another awe-inspiring structure bearing both gothic and baroque styles. It is quite overwhelming and a LOT to look at.

Back up the hill to meet our sweet Airbnb host who sat us down with a map and marked it all up. If you know me you know I like a marked-up, well-used paper map. Now we had some local recommendations and we were off to see the town.

Our first stop was the riverfront of course. This is the most instragramed area of Porto. When you google Porto this is what you see. Seeing it in person is even better. People walking shoulder to shoulder; little kiosks selling touristy junk; restaurants with views of the river; musicians making money doing what they love. It was quite something!

Starving, we did the tourist thing and sat at a restaurant on the riverfront. And it was a great decision! Sometimes – I feel – doing the touristy thing is necessary. We got to sit and watch the people and the water and the stunning Vila Nova de Gaia across the river. We got to eavesdrop on the stag party going on right next to us and we got to listen and watch an amazing musician right in front of us. And of course the food. We both tried a traditional dish of Porto – the Francesinha. It’s a sandwich with ham, sausage and beef in the middle covered with melted cheese and a sauce made of tomato and beer. Sounds great, doesn’t it?! Hmmm, not so much. The meat was good, the bread was good, the sauce was interesting and the cheese was…icky. Do I recommend it? Everything I read said it’s a must-try. I wish I’d had something else!

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Up, up, up some more hills in Porto and then we headed over the top of the famous Luís I Bridge. This bridge famously crosses the Duoro river between Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia where the port wine cellars that gave Porto it’s name are located. This is the bridge where most of those stunning pictures of Porto have been taken! Pedestrians can take the upper or lower part of the bridge and should definitely take the upper part for the incredible views! Just do t be afraid of heights!

We’d come up, up, up the hill to pass the Luis I bridge at the top so we needed to go down, down, down the hill to get to the sweet town of Vila Nova de Gaia. As usual, we took “the road less traveled by” and “that made all the difference”. We ended up on a small dirt path that was restricted to pedestrians due to construction. But we were all by ourselves! And the views from there were incredible. We’d take the road less traveled by more than once on this trip…

At the bottom of the hill…We really wanted to do a port wine tour but I hadn’t had the forethought to make a reservation nor check the closing times so we were out of luck. But we stumbled upon Mercado Beira-Rio – a small market with a dozen or so restaurants and bars within it. And community style seating in the middle. John had his first(!) glass of port and we picked up a bottle of white from the Duoro valley for me.

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We took our wine and plastic cups to another Miradouro at the top of the hill – Parque Municipal das Virtudes – opposite the famous Cais de Ribeira to watch another stunning sunset. This is where all of those incredible photos of Porto come from – across the river! Again, the park was filled with people. People with kids; playing music, eating their picnics; drinking their wine. And again, the simplicity of life and the beauty of nature and the gratitude one can’t help but feel there gives way to meaningful conversation and overwhelming feelings of love. When the sun dropped into the water of the Duoro river and the sky became pink everyone in the park clapped 🙂

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It had been a long day and we decided to head back to our apartment. On the way we stumbled upon a musician playing guitar and singing in the street adjacent to the Sao Bento train station. Something about her voice and the harsh way she played the guitar caused us to stop and listen. And I’m so glad we did. Her name is Susana Silva. Her voice had a strong, “see me roar” vibe and her words – because a few songs were in English – spoke to us in a profound way. It is called “B U“. It says, “Be Yourself”, “Love Yourself” – these were the themes. More than anything they reminded us of our prayers for the kids. We walked away hand-in-hand me with a soft smile on my face and John with a tear in his eye.

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The peaceful feeling got completely obliterated as we got crazy lost trying to find our way back to the apartment! And remember the crazy kids dressed like Harry Potter? They’d multiplied! There were even more of them and now they were chanting as the walked the streets of Porto. I needed to do some research on this…

Eventually we found our apartment and decided to treat ourselves to a yummy gelato to calm us down before bed 🙂

Adventure, Food, Lisbon, Portugal 2019, Travel

Life is Good but Wine is Better

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What better way to start your first full day in Lisbon but with Portuguese pastries! This whole city is packed with pastelaria and the typical Lisbon pastry is called pasteis de nata. It was high on my list of things to eat here. We consulted Google and found a small bakery in one of the little hidden alleyways in Alfama – our neighborhood. Breakfast = 1 pasteis de nata, 1 azevias do grão e amendõa – which is cinnamon and chickpeas in fried dough(!) and one savory bread stuffed with chorizo. Okay! Everything I’d heard about pasteis de nata is spot on! It is a flaky crust similar to a croissant filled with a delicious custard and the top is similar to the consistency of creme brûlée. Absolutely yummy and a must-eat here!

Healthy Breakfast in Alfama!

We had some time before our scheduled walking tour so now headed up the hill from our apartment toward Sao Jorge Castle – which is a castle built in the mid 11th century and sits at the top of the biggest hill in Alfama. I’ve read it’s not worth paying the money to visit the castle and it was closed so we went in search of a viewpoint and were not disappointed!

Miradouro de Santa Luiza is one of the the most beautiful views in Lisbon. Miradouro translates simply to viewpoint in English. Apparently anytime you see a sign for a Miradouro you should take advantage of it. And since it was so early (Lisbonites seem to stir a bit later than other European cities) we were one of just a few people in the sweet square. It is beautifully landscaped and offers an unobstructed view of the Tagus in the distance and the copper colored rooftops of Alfama in the foreground. Just stunning. At Portas do Sol – which was of course not open yet – we got to see one of the most photographed views in Lisbon.

We headed down the hill toward Bairro Alto where we were scheduled to take a free walking tour of Lisbon. John and I love to do these tours. They are always run by locals and tourists get a chance to hear their stories and ask questions and get local recommendations. This time we chose Chillout Lisbon Tours based on reviews I’d seen online. Pedro was our tour guide – a Fado-singing local who got fired from his office job and decided to use his passion for his city on tours.

During the tour we were given a lot of history on the city. The event in this city that seems to define it more than any other is the earthquake of 1755. I’d read about the earthquake but it was fascinating to be on the streets where it happened and picture life that day.

The earthquake happened on November 1st at 9:40 am. Scientists today say that it registered an 8.5-9 on the Richter scale and it lasted up to 6 minutes. Compare that with the latest quake in San Francisco in 2007 that was just a 5.6 on the Richter scale! The earthquake caused fissures up to 16 feet across. And – since the quake took place on the Catholic holiday of All Saints Day – candles lit in homes and in churches started massive fires all over the city. Survivors of the earthquake rushed from their homes toward what they thought was safety – the water of the Tagus river. From there they watched the river recede and then a tsunami engulfed the harbor and the downtown area of the city, killing somewhere between 10,000 and 100,000 Lisbonites.

A pictorial of the death and destruction of the Lisbon earthquake

Needless to say that day has left it’s mark on the city. The architecture of the buildings changed; the mindset of the people changed; the way they celebrated changed. And the passion that Pedro spoke about it was moving. They have even left the Carmo Convent as it stood after the earthquake that day – roofless as a result of the building caving in on the congregants that day.

We continued on through 4 of the main neighborhoods of Lisbon where Pedro sang and joked and provided history lessons and gave recommendations.

Two things I won’t soon forget – a quote by the Portuguese poet Fernando Pessoa who said “Life is Good but Wine is Better!” Apparently he died of liver colic – a.k.a. Chronic alcoholism! And in Lisbon you can “drink whatever you want, wherever you want, whenever you want”! It was a very nice 3 hours and I would definitely recommend anyone to take one of these tours.

Based on a recommendation from Pedro, we headed back to the Bairro Alto neighborhood for a traditional Portuguese lunch. He recommended a street called Rua de Duque which has 5 wonderful, local restaurants on it. I’d actually read the same in my research so we headed to O Fernandinho restaurant, run by Fernando himself – a short, round, jolly man who greeted us with a smile.

We ordered another traditional dish – bacalhau a lagareiro. It was SOOOO good! Grilled cod seeped in olive oil and garlic and accompanied by potatoes and broccoli. My favorite meal yet! Just beware of bones 🙂

More walking…more walking…back to our apartment to rest our weary feet.

Another night in Lisbon equals another stunning sunset. There are so many places to watch the sunsets here. Again, termed Miradouros. This time we packed wine (drink anything, anywhere, anytime!) that our host had left us and headed back up the hill to Placa de Graça. It was nothing more than a small square with a little sculpture and one bar/restaurant but was teeming with people! We managed to get a spot right on the side of the wall for a another gorgeous sunset over the rooftops of Lisbon. And more importantly, sitting in that environment we are able to be completely present. Surrounded by beauty and diversity and love and laughter. That kind of scenario seems to open the door for communication and extreme appreciation. It was a moment I am truly grateful for – especially because I got to share it with the love of my life.

Time for more walking and food! We headed back down the hill and decided to try another typical restaurant on Rua de Duque since every other place was packed with tourists! I don’t like it when the waiters and hosts almost accost you while walking by and I’d rather not eat with a bunch of tourists anyway…This time we ate at Duque da Rua and shared a carafe of Portuguese white and more conversation and smiles.

As we walked back to our apartment through the alleyways with Fado playing in the background, the night would not be complete without having more of Lisbon’s traditional liqueur called Ginja. A Portuguese woman had a small table set out with a large bottle and plastic shot glasses as well as chocolate shot glasses! Can you imagine what we chose?!

A stop on the way to our apartment for a chocolate bar completed our amazing day!

Adventure, Lisbon, Portugal, Portugal 2019, Travel, Woman

The LIGHT of Lisbon

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My first impression of this city is the light. The way the light hits the pastel-colored buildings – some of which also boast traditional Portuguese tiles – is stunning! And the way the brilliant blue of the sky sits in the background. Even the streets seem to reflect the sunlight; the cobblestones sparkling! It is truly phenomenal. And apparently it’s not just me – studies have been done on the phenomenon of the light in Lisbon. Fascinating…and oh so pretty.

The light of Lisbon

Since we were arriving post Portuguese holiday and the traffic wasn’t bad, our driver Jorge took us on a brief tour of the city – starting from the older portion which was not destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. As you drive closer to the river Tagus you see the difference in architecture and how the buildings have changed since the devastation of that day. The newer buildings are charming with traditional Portuguese tiles and pastel colors of all shades.

Our sweet little apartment in Alfama

A short stop in our super cozy little Airbnb in the neighborhood of Alfama and we were off to check things out.

The downtown area of Lisbon is made up of many distinct neighborhoods – all very close together and all very different from each other. Well I think we visited every single one.

Alfama – the neighborhood we’re staying in – is the oldest in the downtown area and is also described as the most charming. This part of the city survived the devastating earthquake of 1755. The streets are cobblestone and the alleyways are hidden and tiny and adorable. Small shops, restaurants and bars seem to be placed in the most unimaginable places. It’s a neighborhood where you can and should get lost! I believe that is where you’ll find the most charm. Flowers pop from cobblestone sidewalks and apartment terraces.

A view of the rooftops – Lisbon

We had our first unplanned meal on our way down the hill from Alfama. Both of us love to try the traditional cuisine of a place while we travel and this was no different. John got a very typical dish called bacalhau com natas – a mixture of codfish, potatoes and onions with some cream. It was lovely! I – on the other hand – opted for sardines. I know…but I had to try them. They seem to be everywhere in this city! Well, I tried them – once was enough! I also had some wonderful mussels – not a traditional dish but a girl’s got to eat.

We headed down the hill from Alfama toward the center of the city – Baixa. This is definitely tourist-central! This is also the area of the city that was completely destroyed in the earthquake and so is very new – respectively speaking. Interestingly, it also contains the earliest examples of earthquake-resistant architecture. There are tons of restaurants and shops – restaurants and shops that you will find all over the world – H&M anyone?! – but there are also some gorgeous buildings and lovely statues in some of the placas.

Praça do Comércio is known as the entrance to Lisbon. It was rebuilt after the earthquake and is a large welcoming square set right on the riverfront. Here you can check out the cruise ships and sailboats as you walk along the water. So many people come to this area to watch the unbelievable sunset each night over the water.

We took our time strolling down the riverfront enjoying the people watching and the weather and the water. We were walking toward another neighborhood called Cais do Sodre.

This is one of the cool, hip trendy neighborhoods. It is considered to be a good example of Lisbon’s transformation from traditional to more progressive and liberal. It contains Ribeira das Naus, the recently rejuvenated riverfront areas where tourists and locals alike flock to relax along the water. This is where John and I watched our first Lisbon sunset. We stopped at one of the quiosques for some wine. These quiosques can be found all over the city. You can buy wine or some light snacks here. We bought a glass of Portuguese white wine for me and Portuguese green wine for John!

You read that correctly – green wine! Green wine is nothing new – it is the typical Portuguese Vinho Verde from the northern part of the country. It is cool, crisp and has some effervescence. So yes it’s fizzy. Not my thing 🙂

After the brilliant sunset, we got lost and ended up on Cais do Sodre’s infamous Pink Street. Come here if you want to drink and party into the wee hours of the morning. And after you party, the shopkeepers have to scrub down that famous pink street!

We headed up the hill toward Bairro Alto. In Bairro Alto you are returned to cobblestone streets but it has a much more hippie-bohemian style. There is a lot of personality in this neighborhood! We passed so many cool, eclectic wine bars. Tables are set onto the cobblestone streets for tourists to dine al fresco. And it seems like music and laughter can be heard around every corner.

It was getting way past our bedtime so we made our way slowly back to Alfama. The Alfama neighborhood is also known for having the best Fado music in Lisbon. Fado is the traditional music of Lisbon and from all I’ve read – a must-hear! The music itself is listed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Fado is sung in Portuguese and has a sad, melancholy feel to it. It is somewhat haunting. It is typically a female singer and two men playing guitar. It can be heard all over Alfama! The female voices are strong and steady and loud and absolutely amazing! Just turn the corner onto another tiny alleyway and you can hear another voice belting out a beautiful, yet mournful, tune. Tourists either pay to hear the musicians or just sit on the steps and listen for free.

Since it was late we grabbed a bottle of Portuguese white wine and headed to our apartment where we listened to Fado music (on Spotify!) and talked about life. What a great start to our vacation!

Adventure, Food, Switzerland 2018, Travel, Woman

Vin Chaude and Santa flying through the air

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Today was a rest day for the Cacheris’s! We needed it after averaging about 9 miles a day!

We set off on foot mid morning to take in the famous Castle de Chillon – this is a must-do based on the research I’ve done. You can walk the lake promenade the entire way there which seems to always be picturesque. And of course shop at all of the market stalls along the way. In so doing we stopped at a stall that was just opening to peruse the gorgeous leather and silver bracelets. We ended up talking to Arthur – the owner and artist behind Surpiqure.

One of the gorgeous bracelets at Surpiqure

Not only did we love the jewelry but again the conversation was what made the experience extraordinary. John asked about French politics and again, the vendor’s way of life – traveling over France and Europe to sell his jewelry. And about how his internet business is picking up. And about how the weather really dictates the success of his business during Montreux Noël. Very cool, very fascinating guy! We’re both grateful – again – for these moments during our travels. John calls them serendipitous. It’s an appropriate word and one of the things we both adore about seeing the world – it’s people!

Off to Chillon!

The impressive Castle de Chillon

Castle de Chillon is a medieval fortress sitting on the shores of Lake Geneva. It is the most visited monument in Switzerland. The oldest parts of the castle haven’t been definitively dated but the first written record of the castle is 1005! It is most known for it’s use as a prison in the 16th century. It’s most famous prisoner is Francois Bonivard on whom Lord Byron’s famous poem “The Prisoner of Chillon” is based. In fact Byron even carved his name on one of the pillars in the castle’s dungeon.

Perhaps more compelling to readers, Chillon also inspired the castle in Disney’s The Little Mermaid 🧜‍♀️

It was an enormous, haunting castle with incredible views of the lake from every window. And contrary to some museums I’ve been in, there was a ton of information on the history of each and every room.

I wasted – and loved! – the next few hours sitting poolside in the Fairmont’s Willow Stream Spa.

I really wanted to do the tourist thing and head down to Montreux Noël and partake in a Vin Chaude (hot mulled wine) in one of the specially erected bars on the promenade. It seemed like visitors and locals alike were down there drinking their hot wine and having a good ‘ole time. The problem with this plan, however, is that I’m not a fan of hot wine. I have more of a love/hate relationship with it. I love the feel of wrapping my hands around a steaming cup but — it just doesn’t taste good! It was a sacrifice I was willing to make. John and I split a Vin Chaude Blanc – which is better than a hot red wine – but only slightly.

We headed down the promenade – hot wine in hand – to see the one thing we did not want to miss!

See, every evening during Montreux Noël Santa Claus rides through the night air in his flying sleigh! They have cleverly raised cables high above the huts of the market and the sleigh literally flies through the air and stops directly in front of the Ferris wheel. He even has fireworks shooting from the runners of the sleigh as he takes off. And to top it all off, once he gets to his destination he stops – suspended in the air – and whips out his guitar and starts singing! We think it was the French version of “Go Tell it on the Mountain” it was sooooooo cheesy – and sooooooo cool.

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We decided before the trip to have at least one nice dinner. The concierge at the Fairmont recommended Restaurant 45 at the Grand Hotel Suisse Majestic. It got rave reviews and we were so excited. Well we were sorely disappointed ☹️. The food was average at best – bland is the best way to describe it. And when I asked for wine recommendations, the waiter poured tastes for John to try. Only John- I had to try his. Needless to say this didn’t sit well with me. And the atmosphere – just eh. I’m positive the views were gorgeous but as it was dark that didn’t matter. We left completely dissatisfied.

Back to the Fairmont and Funky Claude’s Bar – a bar attached to our hotel boasting live music every night. This place was fun! Two “mature” men – one on the electric guitar and one on the sax playing good old fashioned American rock music.

We ended on a solid high!

Adventure, Switzerland 2018, Travel, Woman

Welcome to Montreux…Noel!

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Montreux is a relatively small town on the shores of Lake Geneva known worldwide for the Montreux Jazz Festival – an international jazz festival held every summer. And of course for its Christmas market held every winter.

A couple of things to note about Montreux – in full disclosure I’m comparing it to Zermatt.

First the location – and therefore the views – are completely different. Zermatt lies deep in a valley and is surrounded by the jagged – and massive – peaks of the Swiss Alps. Montreux sits on Lake Geneva so you see the still, sparking water with the softer snow-capped Swiss Alps in the background. It was just slightly cloudy and the low clouds hovered about halfway down the mountain making for a surreal vista.

Montreux is so French! Whereas in Zermatt we practiced our German here we’re a bit more comfortable using our limited French. But it’s such a lovely language that it is a pleasure to try to speak it. Also contrary to Zermatt, there are many signs and menus that are only in French.

Although the population of Montreux is only slightly above 26k you can definitely tell that people make their life in this town. There are moms feeding their little ones on benches in the park and business men in suits getting off the bus on their way from work. Because it’s not solely a resort town the pace is much quicker and, yes I’ll say it, the people you encounter slightly ruder.

Or first stop was to our hotel – the infamous Fairmont Le Montreux Palace. I splurged on this one and was really hoping for something magnificent. Well I could tell from the first moment we walked in that we would not be disappointed! It is a massive, historic, gorgeous hotel right on the Swiss Riviera. It’s already tastefully decorated for the holidays with white lights draped along the banister of the central staircase and an elegant Christmas tree right at the reception desk. It was love at first sight for me! At this point in the trip I think we were both worn out and the idea of a little luxury was very welcome!

We were happily welcomed by reception and shown to our 4th floor room with 3 terraces – one of which overlooks Lake Geneva and the distant Swiss Alps. The room is romantic, elegant and charming with the historic touches of crown molding, carved wood ceilings and a marble bath featuring a jacuzzi tub (yay!!!!)

As if I weren’t about to swoon already, we were greeted with a spread of Swiss chocolate, French macarons and a Chocolate Petit Gateaux.

Swiss chocolate and French macarons – great combination!
The lovely superior room at the Fairmont
Our view…enough said

It was time to explore our new city so we set off to the nearby town of Vevey. Vevey was on John’s shortlist for places to stay in Switzerland. It was a scenic walk down the lake and we thought the movement would do us good. The views were phenomenal during most of the walk where pedestrians were permitted to walk right on the lake. But our destination…not so phenomenal! I will say, there is an Alimentarium in Vevey – a food museum – that we did not go into. I feel like doing that may have changed my mind about the town. But John and I both found it a bit depressing and dreary and somewhat sad. It’s not a place I’d recommend.

Next on our list was to explore Montreux’s famous Christmas market called Montreux Noël. The market essentially begins at our hotel – in the gardens out front – and continues for 1 kilometer – all the way to the Montreux Casino. It contains 160 delightfully decorated timber stalls featuring food, hot mulled wine (vin chaude) and vendors selling everything from jewelry to elf slippers. It’s incredible! There is a massive Ferris wheel for kids and adults alike, live music and even Santa literally flying on his sleigh! We were like little kids as we saw the sights – and all of the twinkle lights!

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One of the coolest things we saw was the La Redoute House of Wishes which is situated in the indoor heart of the market. All are welcome to grab a small card and write what they wish for. Allegedly the wishes will be sent directly to Santa. Appropriately John and I wrote almost the same message ❤️

John’s wish
My wish

We were completely exhausted at this point but John noticed lights reflected on the beautiful Fairmont of the way back. After a brief rest we had to check it out. This year a brand new light show was included as part of the Christmas market – provided by the Fairmont – to project lights onto the facade of the hotel. The show includes the fantastic light display and Christmas music every evening during the season. What a festive way to end our first day in Montreux!

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